The tradition of snacks by the sea is a typically Italian custom that has its roots in popular habits and in the culture of good food shared in moments of relaxation and conviviality with food prepared at home or purchased at local kiosks, a moment of socialization but also opportunity to share traditional recipes and taste regional specialties. Precisely for this reason they vary from region to region, but there are some foods that are almost always present such as Bread and Tomato with slices of homemade bread seasoned with fresh tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, salt and oregano and a few basil leaves, the inevitable aubergines parmesan, rice salad or cold pasta, light and easy to preserve dishes, ideal for eating under the umbrella. In recent years, the tradition of the seaside snack has also seen an evolution, with the introduction of more modern foods such as gourmet sandwiches, quinoa salads or poke bowls, but without losing its character of simplicity and sharing. Even the presence of bars and restaurants on the beach has transformed this ritual, offering ready and more convenient alternatives, nevertheless for many, the charm of the homemade snack remains unbeatable.
In particular, in Puglia the taste of onion is a must: the onion is in fact a fundamental element of traditional Apulian cuisine, expressed in many dishes, which enhance its sweet and aromatic flavour. Just as you are spoiled for choice as to which type of onion to choose: There is the very early white onion from Barletta, the White from Margherita di Savoia, the large White from August or Agostegna (Barletta), the Red from Barletta, the famous Rossa di Acquaviva so sweet that it is also used in pastry making, the Bruna flat from Barletta, the Cipolla di Zapponeta.
And there is no shortage of recipes, ranging from whole baked onions with extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper and sometimes a light sprinkling of cheese or breadcrumbs to salads in which raw onion, thinly sliced, is accompanied by tomatoes, cucumbers and other seasonal vegetables, seasoned with olive oil and salt, enhancing the freshness of the ingredients. Not to mention the traditional Apulian soups and soups in which the onion becomes a fundamental base for soups such as chicory and bean soups.
For some time now, gastronomes have discovered - and not only in Puglia - Focaccia with a capital F, the most famous of southern focaccias. It is prepared with a dough based on re-milled durum wheat semolina, boiled potatoes, water, yeast, extra virgin olive oil and salt. It is seasoned with fresh cherry tomatoes, black olives, onion, oregano and a generous dose of olive oil. Cooking takes place in a wood-fired oven, which gives the focaccia a crunchy crust and a soft, fragrant interior.
But the dish most intimately linked to the gastronomic traditions of the country people is the Onion Calzone, perhaps the recipe that more than all expresses the intense and fragrant flavor of this bulbous plant known and appreciated since ancient times. Archaeological and literary evidence suggests that cultivation dates back to ancient Egypt, together with garlic and leek. Onions and radishes appear to have been part of the diet of the workers who built the pyramids. The ancient Egyptians even made it an object of worship, associating its spherical shape and its concentric rings with eternal life. It was believed that the strong aroma of onions could restore breath to the dead.
The onion calzone is a product historically linked to the culinary tradition of Apulian housewives. The unmistakable smell inevitably refers to the scents of grandmothers' kitchens handed down from generation to generation. There are many recipes, each family keeps its secrets, there are those who prepare the dough with yeast and those without, some use oil, others don't. The original recipe requires spousali, elongated white spring onions, and is enriched with raisins, pitted olives, cheese, oil and anchovies.
The traditional recipe for onion calzone
Ingredients
400 g of 00 soft wheat flour
100 ml white wine
12 g brewer's yeast
1 glass water
extra virgin olive oil
salt
pepper
800 g wedding onions (white onions)
raisins
30 pitted olives
salted anchovies
50 g grated cheese
Preparation
Dissolve the yeast in a glass of warm water and place it in the center of a mound made with the flour. Add oil, wine and a spoonful of salt. Knead for 15 minutes, form a loaf and let it rise for 2 hours. For the filling, proceed by cleaning the onions, removing the stems and external leaves. Cut the spousals into rounds and cook them for 30 minutes in a pan in which we have heated a round of extra virgin olive oil and a cup of water. Salt and pepper to taste
When the onions are wilted, add the other ingredients: cheese, olives, raisins and anchovies, leaving to cook until the bottom of the pan has dried.
Roll out the dough into 2 thin discs. Grease a baking tray with oil. Place one of the two discs on which the filling will be placed and close with the other disc. Press the edges together and apply light pressure by folding them upwards. Bake in the oven at 230 degrees for 30 minutes.
