Born inside a 1800th-century Crotto originally dedicated exclusively to the preservation of food and wine, Il Crott dal Murnee, brought back to life after years of abandonment by Luca Vaghi, chef and manager, has as its prerogative, in homage to the history of these original caves, a constant reference to the authenticity of the territory and its seasonality.
A little history to better understand: A crotto, also called a grotto in Italian-speaking Switzerland and a crott (or crot) in the Lombard dialect, is a natural cavity typical of the mountainous regions of the Alps, particularly around Lake Como, Valchiavenna, and the Canton of Ticino. These rocky cavities nestled against mountainsides have historically been used for food preservation. Mountain breezes that blow through the crevices in the rocks keep the temperature and humidity of the crotti constant year-round: the ideal climate for maturing wines and curing cured meats and cheeses. Due to their importance in the region's gastronomy and ethnography, crotti have historically been the focus of traditional folk festivals, a theme closely linked to their name. Over time, crotti have been transformed into taverns offering typical local products such as Chiavenna gnocchetti (white gnocchi), polenta taragna, polenta uncia, and bresaola.
Faithful to this approach, Luca Vaghi's motto for his restaurant is "Bèf, mangià e ciciarà," intended to promote conviviality, the pleasure of sitting at the table, and discovering a region through wine and food.
The "Cotechino with chickpeas and seasonal vegetables in a sesame crust on a bed of lentils" that the chef offers Mondo Food readers this week is a dish created for the annual Slow Food initiative "Add a legume to the table," which promotes the use of legumes in both restaurant and home kitchens. "We," explains Vaghi, "started with the idea of revolutionizing the use of lentils in a classic dish—pork cotechino and lentils—by offering it in a vegan version, with a little imagination and inventiveness."
A light and appetizing dish, yet a veritable powerhouse of beneficial nutrients for our bodies. Lentils are a staple, rich in plant-based proteins, fiber (especially insoluble fiber), B vitamins, and minerals such as iron, potassium, magnesium, and zinc. Their intake aids digestion, helps regulate blood sugar and cholesterol, and provides energy. Equally important to our diet are chickpeas, rich in fiber, plant-based proteins, B vitamins, and minerals such as iron, calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Their beneficial properties include supporting intestinal health, regulating cholesterol and blood sugar, supporting the cardiovascular system, and preventing anemia. Sesame seeds also provide exceptional nutrients: they are rich in unsaturated fats, proteins, fiber, and minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron, and zinc, as well as B vitamins and vitamin E. Their properties include supporting cardiovascular health, preventing osteoporosis, strengthening the immune system, protecting the liver thanks to sesamin, and aiding digestion.
Cotechino with chickpeas and seasonal vegetables in a sesame crust on a bed of lentils
Ingredients for four people
For the cotechino:
450 g red potatoes
150 g dried chickpeas
300g seasonal vegetables
Salt and Pepper To Taste
4 tablespoons of sesame seeds
For the lentils:
1 carrot, 1 celery stalk, 1 small onion
100g puree, 1 small potato,
Method
After soaking the chickpeas for 12 hours, rinse them and boil them in unsalted water, using a slotted spoon to remove any impurities and cooking foam. After about 20 minutes, drain and rinse thoroughly, then let cool. Chop the celery, carrots, and onion and add them to a pan. Sauté over low heat with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Meanwhile, rinse the lentils and prepare the vegetable broth. When the mixture begins to brown, add a pinch of salt and the chopped rosemary, then stir in the lentils. Then pour in the passata and plenty of broth to cover the contents. Add the peeled and roughly chopped potato and cook over low heat, stirring and adding broth as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Once cooked, remove the potatoes, now softened from cooking, and blend them with a few lentils (a couple of tablespoons and a splash of broth will do). Pour the resulting potato puree into the pan along with the lentils to add a creamy texture to the lentils. Clean the mixed vegetables and sauté them in a pan with a drizzle of oil and a pinch of salt, then set aside to cool. For the cotechino, wash and peel the potatoes, and boil them in salted water. Mash them with a potato masher and let them cool. Blend the cooked chickpeas—without creating a cream, but simply chopping them. Pour the blended chickpeas, mashed potatoes, and mixed vegetables into a bowl, season with salt and pepper to taste, and mix well. Spread a sheet of plastic wrap about two inches long on the work surface, and shape the dough into a "cotechino" about 7 cm in diameter. Wrap the cotechino in plastic wrap, gently rolling it along the long side, squeezing the edges of the plastic wrap with your fingers. After resting in the refrigerator for an hour, remove the cotechino from the plastic wrap and cut it into logs. Toast the sesame seeds in a hot nonstick pan, then place them in a bowl. Roll the logs in the seeds and place the cotechino on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Drizzle each log with a little oil. Bake at 170°C (10°F) in a convection oven for 12-XNUMX minutes. Once ready, use a spatula (be careful, it's very soft and delicate) to serve the delicious lentil cream we just prepared.
Crott dal Murnee Restaurant
Via Roscio 8, Albavilla (Co).
website www.crottdalmurnee.it
cell. 371 3223859
