After raw and cooked ham, it is the undisputed protagonist of Italian summer tables: Bresaola, the historic pride of Valtellina since time immemorial, is liked by all latitudes and all ages. For years, its consumption has recorded a constant and progressive increase due to its health-promoting properties thanks also to a shrewd innovative production policy which has focused on noble cuts of prized cattle breeds.
This has dramatically increased the appreciation of Italians for this sausage which, to be exact, ranks in consumer preferences behind raw (57%) and cooked (49%) ham and, surprisingly, with 39 per cent clearly detaching mortadella (28%) and salami (24%).
From a Doxa/Consorzio di Tutela Bresaola della Valtellina research, on perceptions and consumption habits, it emerges that certified Bresaola wins for lightness and wholesomeness (46% of Italians appreciate the fact that it has a reduced content of fat, salt and preservatives), something that is very close to the heart of new consumers who increasingly prefer and choose foods without preservatives and antibiotics.
As for consumption: 1 Italian out of 2 usually brings it to the table more than once a week. The people between 30 and 49 years of age are the most greedy of Bresaola and above all concentrated in the area of central Italy, which is a discovery given the traditional propensity of the north for sausages.
The reasons for such success” First of all, it is one of the lowest fat and most digestible cured meats. From a nutritional point of view it is a source of high quality protein and vitamins and minerals allied to the proper functioning of the metabolism with antioxidant power. Furthermore, its phosphorus promotes good bone and tooth health, iron and copper are important for the production of red blood cells and potassium helps promote good cardiovascular health.
Beyond the organoleptic and nutritional properties there is then the practicality. The advent of trays has opened up new horizons for the sale of sausages, which can thus be comfortably consumed at work, on trips, and in any case do not require time at home to be sliced. For Bresaola this applies to 43% of the market but obviously, with good scores (35%), both taste and lightness enter the choices.
According to a study by Humanitas of Milan, 100 g of Bresaola della Valtellina IGP provide the body with around 151 calories, 59,3 g of water, 33,1 g of protein, 2,0 g of lipids, of which 0,72 g of saturated fat, 0,69 g of monounsaturated fat, 0,40 g of polyunsaturated fat and 63 mg of cholesterol.
As for vitamins, Bresaola has a high content (2,74 mg per 100 grams of product) of Niacin, also known as nicotinic acid, one of the three forms of vitamin B3. We still find 0,77 µg of vitamin B12; 0,52 mg of vitamin B6; 0,41 mg of thiamine known as vitamin B1 which has an important role in the process of converting glucose into energy; 0,14 mg of vitamin E; 0,13 mg of riboflavin, which participates in the redox reactions of numerous metabolic pathways (carbohydrates, lipids and proteins) and in cellular respiration.
Also rich is the presence of minerals always compared to 100 grams of product: 1.600 mg of sodium, 630 mg of potassium, 269 mg of phosphorus, 26 mg of magnesium, 15 mg of potassium, 6 mg of calcium, 4,5 mg of zinc , 2,6 mg of iron, 0,07 mg of copper, 0,02 mg of manganese, 7 µg of selenium. A nice concentrate of healthy elements for the various functions of the organism.
However, it must also be said that bresaola is also rich in salt and cholesterol, both enemies of heart health; according to experts, their intake should be limited to 2 grams and 300 mg per day, respectively.
An ancient story
The first historical evidence of this precious food is somewhat uncertain. The technique of preserving beef, sheep and game meat, by salting and drying it, was in fact widespread throughout the Alps since the early Middle Ages. Here the air currents play an essential role in drying the meat. At the beginning the processing was reduced to a minimum: the thighs of the steers, stripped of their flesh and sprinkled with salt and spices, were hung from the ceilings of the huts to dry for 60 days.
It is somewhat difficult to establish precisely where its name derives from, which once varied into "brazaola", "bresavola" or "brisaola" depending on the geographical area. According to the most widespread belief, Bresaola would be a synthesis of the expression "sala come brisa", due to the use that was once made of salt in preservation and the fact that in Valchiavenna (a valley close to Valtellina) "brisa" indicated a gland of heavily salted cattle.
According to others, however, it goes back to the term "brasa" (embers in dialect) since once the drying of the product took place in rooms heated by braziers fueled with fir wood charcoal and juniper berries, thyme and bay leaves. From "brisaola" the name then changed over the years to "bresaola".
However, we need to get to the fifteenth century to find the first literary evidence on the production of bresaola: in 1498 the canon Lupi recorded the purchase of meat and the respective pounds of salt in a ledger, while some official documents such as a statute on provisions dated 1467 refer to "salted meat".
Some historians then draw attention to Chiavenna, a village with strong ties to the nearby Grisons and by some (such as the local scholar Anghileri) indicated as the birthplace of Bresaola. Around 1450 the presence in Chiavenna of Giovanni della Pongia seems to be attested, whose nickname – Carnesalata – provides an interesting indication of the activity that he probably carried out.
Certainly until the early 800s the production of this sausage was limited to the family. Then, with the advent of industrial settlements, the demand for salami increased dramatically, the first factories for meat processing and the first drying sheds were built and the product crossed national borders to be exported to nearby Switzerland.
Franco Moro recently confirmed as President of the Consortium for the protection of Bresaola della Valtellina PGI traces a scenario, made up of lights and shadows, to tell the state of health of a vital sector for the economy of the province of Sondrio.
After an excellent 2019, which recorded a production of 13.820 tons (+3% on 2018) for a value of 490 million euros (+8%), and a positive start to 2020 (+7,4% in volume and 1,8, 19% in value) bresaola suffered in the first phase of the Covid-23 emergency. The Consortium has estimated a loss which reached -800% in volume in May (-28 kg, corresponding to over XNUMX million euros in value for consumption). But with positive signs of recovery since the last week.
Strengthened by its healthy profile, as well as its innovative drive, bresaola can look to the future with confidence. According to Nielsen data, the Italian market is worth around 245 million euros, equal to 7,3 million kg. We are talking about an excellence of Made in Italy that in a few decades has gone from a typical product of the region to a national excellence for large consumption. Today Bresaola della Valtellina PGI, loved by 38 million Italians, represents a vital sector for the economy of Valtellina. It offers over 1400 jobs and guarantees direct income to as many families, to which is added the related industries.
On the consumption front, which has been gradually expanding for over 20 years, in 2019 the sector recorded 490 million euros (+8,1% compared to 2018) with an impact on the province of Sondrio of 235 million euros (+4,4% on 2018). On the distribution side, large-scale distribution is confirmed as the main sales channel (76%), with significant growth rates both in volume (+4,8%) and in value (+4,6%) (Source: IRI data).
Even exports in 2019, albeit still limited, recorded a positive figure, with a value of 26 million euros (+8,33% compared to 2018). Of the total Bresaola della Valtellina PGI produced, exports account for 9% (+3% compared to 2018) with 1.245 tonnes in Europe (Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Croatia, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece , Ireland, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Holland, Poland, Portugal, United Kingdom, Czech Rep., San Marino Rep., Romania, Sweden, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Hungary) and outside the European Union (with important commercial partners in Armenia, United Arab Emirates, Jordan, Hong Kong, Kenya, Kuwait, Lebanon, Serbia, Seychelles, Switzerland).
The Decalogue of the Bresaola di Valtellina IGP consumer
Delicate and refined, Bresaola della Valtellina PGI does not like the combination of flavors that are too strong. On the home page of the Consortium for the protection of Bresaola della Valtellina PGI, it is suggested to avoid, for example, the combination with red peppers or artichokes and in any case pay close attention to the quantities and proportions by adding fresh and soft products to obtain the right balance.
Among the ingredients that can be used to produce Bresaola della Valtellina PGI, there is no lactose. This is the result of a specific choice by the producers, who have specially modified the production regulations. However, it is always prudent to read the label carefully!
To recognize the quality of the product, it is advisable to taste Bresaola della Valtellina PGI au naturel, i.e. without seasonings. In this way, sometimes completed with curls of juniper butter and rye bread, it is called 'Bresaola Santa'.
If used in some recipes, it is advisable to add Bresaola della Valtellina PGI only at the end of cooking, right on the finishing straight, so as not to alter its flavor and aroma, leaving the consistency as unchanged as possible. The addition on a pizza for example? Upon exiting the oven.
Then there is an ancient custom to dispel the seasoning with lemon: Lemon juice directly on bresaola tends to oxidize it, causing a 'cooked' effect. So lemon yes, but in a delicate emulsion with oil and pepper – in short, a citronette, a close relative of vinaigrette – or on the accompanying vegetables.
While it is generally true that the wine must follow the color of the food, this is not the case for Bresaola della Valtellina PGI. In fact, the right combination is with white wines, savory and with a good degree of acidity, or with sparkling or rosé wines. It is a delicate cured meat and an intense red wine would cover its flavour. If it really has to be red, let it be delicate too.
Shape, let's not forget, is flavour. The slice should taste thin, with a thickness between 0.6-0.8 mm. Only in this way will the softness and fragrance of Bresaola della Valtellina PGI reveal their maximum potential on the palate. As usual, however, measure is needed, and it is good to remember that slices that are too thin are difficult to use in the kitchen.
If other cured meats, such as raw ham, have a long seasoning, Bresaola della Valtellina PGI should be eaten young, from a minimum of four to a maximum of eight weeks of seasoning.
Only in this way will it present its typical intense red, a delicate scent of spices and a slight hint of seasoned meat. The more it is seasoned, the more it will darken and the spicy notes and sapidity will be accentuated.
There is no doubt: to keep its organoleptic characteristics intact, sliced bresaola should be eaten as soon as possible. Best within 24 hours. It is advisable to keep it in the fridge in a closed container.
If, on the other hand, we are talking about a slice, it is possible to keep the cured meat in the fridge – between 0 and 4° C – wrapped in a cloth, covering the cut surface with a food film to prevent oxidation.
How to recognize Bresaola della Valtellina PGI? From his tenderness. During chewing it offers the palate a pleasantly soft consistency, never rubbery or plastic, and a structure that is not at all fibrous. After tasting, the mouth must remain clean, with a slight persistence of spice and seasoned meat.
