Pitti Uomo the Fortezza da Basso is rekindled and brings Florence back to the center of fashion International Men's Championship. From today, Tuesday, June 16th, until Friday, June 19th, the 110th edition of the show showcases the Spring/Summer 2027 collections, at a challenging time for the fashion industry and Made in Italy. The event arrives at a time marked by geopolitical tensions, macroeconomic uncertainty, tighter margins, and slower consumption. Precisely for this reason, the Florentine event takes on even greater significance: not just a commercial showcase, but a platform for discussion, scouting, and repositioning for companies, buyers, and emerging talent.
In the Fortress I am approximately 740 brands present, with a foreign share approaching 45% and companies arriving from over thirty countries. The goal is to send a signal of resilience and revitalization to a sector that in Tuscany, as in the rest of Italy, is seeking new directions after years of slowdown.
Pitti Uomo 110: a fair called to send signals to the sector
“Small businesses are growing and making important steps, and Pitti Uomo represents many of these realities,” he explained. Antonio De Matteis, President of Pitti Immagine, looks forward to an edition that focuses on the role of the most dynamic companies and the fair's ability to showcase a production system built on quality, expertise, and research. Pitti Uomo thus remains a place where men's fashion doesn't just sell collections, but builds relationships, trends, and identities. Also Ivano Cauli, making his debut as CEO of Pitti Immagine, emphasizes the need to bring positive energy to a market beset by successive crises. "Navigating the future" is the formula chosen to summarize this edition's challenge: to guide the sector as traditional routes become less predictable.
The caution It is aimed primarily at international buyersPitti aims to strengthen the presence of buyers from Asia, North and South America, without neglecting dynamic European markets like Poland. The scouting and invitation efforts, also supported by ICE, aim to create a lively atmosphere in the pavilions and offer exhibitors new business opportunities.
The push comes from research, activewear and perfumes
The fair tries to respond to the complicated phase Expanding its offering. Alongside tailoring, classics, and cutting-edge brands, complementary categories are growing, from activewear to niche perfumery. Hi Beauty, the space dedicated to avant-garde perfumery between Europe and Asia, returns after its debut last edition, while I Go Out confirms its position as one of the most observed hubs for sports and outdoor fashion.
The goal is to intercept buyers looking for new products, well-constructed, capable of standing out in an increasingly crowded offering. In a market where margins have thinned, the right price and perceived quality become decisive levers. Pitti thus tries to position yourself as a compass to understand where menswear is moving, not only aesthetically but also commercially.
The visual theme of the edition, “The Pool”, reinforces this idea of passage and reflection. The pool becomes an image of surface, desire, and transformation, with an imagery curated by Chris Vidal Tenomaa and Tuomas Laitinen. A symbolic frame for a men's fashion that observes itself and attempts to redefine itself.
Simone Rocha, Kei Ninomiya and the new protagonists
The calendar of events confirms the international vocation of Pitti Uomo 110. Among the most anticipated names there is Simone Rocha, this edition's guest designer, will present her first independent menswear show on Thursday, June 18th at 5:00 PM at the Teatro della Pergola. For the London-based Irish designer, this is an important step, adding global appeal to the Florentine fashion week.
Great expectation also for Kei Ninomiya, already known for Noir Kei Ninomiya and his work with Comme des Garçons, will bring DSM Kei Ninomiya, Dover Street Market's first in-house project, to Florence with an evening show at the Sant'Orsola Complex. The promise is an experimental, technical, and transversal wardrobe, aligned with an aesthetic exploration that transcends traditional categories.
Among the new names to watch are Jiyong Kim, South Korean designer and semifinalist of the LVMH Prize 2024, protagonist with his spring-summer 2027 collection thanks to the collaboration between Pitti and the Korea Creative Content Agency. Space also for William Palmer, a British talent awarded at the International Talent Support 2026 and winner of the Pitti Immagine Award, with a vision made of exaggerated proportions, stripes and a subtle subversive streak.
Il the program also looks to Northern EuropeSunflower, a Danish brand founded in Copenhagen in 2018 by Ulrik Pedersen, arrives in Florence as part of the collaboration between Pitti Uomo and Copenhagen Fashion Week, celebrating the twentieth anniversary of the Danish fashion week. This is a new step in the dialogue between Pitti and the Scandinavian scene, which has already emerged in recent editions.
Made in Italy, exports and supply chain: the game beyond the catwalk
Behind the fashion shows and events, Pitti Uomo also opens a cbroader comparison on the health of Italian men's fashionThe sector arrives at the Fortezza with mixed signals. After the post-Covid rebound, turnover showed a progressive flexion: from 11,8 billion in 2023 to 11,4 billion in 2024, up to 11,2 billion in 2025. Consumption in the autumn-winter 2025-26 season also slowed down, with a contraction of 0,6% after the growth recorded in the previous season.
On the export frontThe European Union continues to show signs of vitality, with growth of 3% and a share of the total that has risen to 48,1%. Non-EU countries remain the majority, but have declined by 5,7%. It is in this context that Antonella mansi, president of the Florence Center for Italian Fashion, emphasizes the need to diversify markets and invest in the supply chain, calling for a stronger industrial strategy at the European level as well.
The war in Iran, the tensions in the Gulf area, the issue of tariffs and the increase in prices make it more company planning is fragileFashion, especially that made up of small and medium-sized businesses, needs stability, secure supplies, and more distributed markets. Pitti Uomo thus becomes the place to measure the system's resilience and understand whether creativity can once again transform into growth. For four days, Florence becomes the global menswear thermometer. With buyers, brands, emerging designers, and prominent international guests, the 110th edition promises more than just trends for spring-summer 2027. It seeks to chart a course for a sector that must restart without losing its identity.
