Abbeys, cathedrals, castles, nature reserves, waterfalls and then cultivated lands, horses, grazing animals, medieval villages. Ciociaria, the ancient land of work as it was defined at the time of the Bourbons, the area between Lazio and Campania, known for one of the most famous films in the history of Italian cinema, "La ciociara" in fact, owes its name to the ciocie, ancient shoes, and to that cradle of monasticism which is the Montecassino Abbey. But it also hides real treasures in the field of oenology which begin to come to light thanks to the enthusiasm and inspiration of winemakers who challenge the market with their biodynamic wines, made every day with passion and effort. At least ten of them will soon meet together to make Ciociari wines known and appreciated. Word of Marco Marrocco, who in the lands of Arce, in the province of Frosinone, cultivates ancient vines that yielded the Ciocian countryside is famous throughout the Kingdom of Napoli.
Lecinaro, Ulevel black, Pampanaro, Capolongo, white Maturano ancient recovered vines
In its vineyards the Lecinaro, black Ulevel, Pampanaro, Capolongo and white Maturano are grown together with the best known Moscato di Terracina, Syrah and Malvasia Puntinata, in balance between heaven and earth, according to the dictates of biodynamic agriculture and Steiner's philosophy. Thrown to the nettles - so to speak - the profession of engineer, Marco studies oenology and today cultivates 15 hectares of land between vineyards and olive groves to which is added, and he tells it with great satisfaction, a sour cherry grove. It took years to register the unknown grape varieties, the school of Carlo Noro to learn about biodynamics and its secrets and ten years of work to get to produce the 50 bottles of his company, Palazzo Tronconi, in the medieval center of Arce, where a stone's throw from the vineyards there are taverns and guest rooms. A true volcano of ideas, a hurricane of words, Marco Marrocco.
The dictates of biodynamic agriculture and Steiner's philosophy are followed
It tells all this and more in Rome, a stone's throw from the majestic Basilica of San Giovanni, between a theater, the Golden, and a post office among the best known of 900th century architecture, where “Verso” wine shop with kitchen with 1000 labels and two chefs at the stove, Simone Giuliani and Daniele Bonanni. An after-theater meeting place, Giorgio Mansueti's restaurant has many labels of natural, organic and biodynamic wines and is well suited to Marco's winemaking spirit. So the lentils with hazelnut mousse that open the tasting of a Fregelle 2021 go well with the right sapidity and hints of acacia and apples of this PGI, 13 degrees, Demeter certified, a blend made in equal parts of Maturano, native vine of Val Comino, of White Capolongo and white Pampanaro, autochthonous rediscovered and registered in 2010 (19 euros in the cellar). The rabbit terrine with parmesan and truffle from our young chefs is paired with Between Diaure 2021, a well-structured rosé in the mouth, made from Lecinaro, with a light pressing of 12 hours, 13,5 degrees. The name of the wine pays homage to the brigand Michele Arcangelo Pezza, well-known member of the Sanfedista movement.
Carlo Noro's school to learn about biodynamics and its secrets
For this, as for other wines, the fermentation is spontaneous and therefinement takes place in cement tanks, terracotta amphorae or in oak or acacia wood, without any physical or chemical treatment; the bottling is performed following the phases of the moon. Let's move on to the gnocchi with mixed meat sauce to taste Zi' Tore 2021, which Marco dedicated to his grandfather. The Lecinaro vine, ruby red in colour, 13,5% alcohol, hints of chocolate plum and coffee (24 euros in the cellar). It comes then Donnico 202, Frusinate PGI, olive vine, it is made in an amphora and is dedicated to a Bourbon leader who fought against Garibaldi arriving in Arce - says our winemaker who has many other stories of those times unearthed in the Palace while tasting the buffalo roast arrived from the Lilliputian kitchens of Verso in combination with Donnicò. Fairy tales or true stories, the glass in the evening is the master.
