The curtain opens on Italian fashion 2024 and men's fashion enters first, with two consecutive events: from 9 to 12 January 2024 Florence will open the doors of the Fortezza da Basso to host the 105th edition of Pitti Uomo. Then it will follow Milan Men's Fashion, scheduled for January 12th to 16th.
The fashion industry, the second sector of the Italian balance, indicates for the 2023 a growth of 4,9%, according to estimates by Confindustria Fashion on Istat data, well above pre-Covid levels, also for the percentage of exports, which last year reached 73,2%, compared to 69,3% in 2019. Of course, the record of 2022, with the post-Covid rebound pandemic and 20,3% growth will be difficult to review. In particular, men's fashion, which represents 20% of the entire sector, is expected to grow by 2023% in 5, compared to 4% for women.
Florence and Milan are dedicated to men's fashion
Pitti Uomo whose first edition dates back to 1927, this year it will be structured into 5 thematic sections – Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling and I Go Out, with special areas dedicated to pets and vintage.
A Milano there will be 74 events on the calendar, including twenty-seven fashion shows, some physical, others in live streaming and then thirty-nine presentations and eight other events. The public will be able to follow these events, reserved for operators, from the Urban Vision maxi screens which will be mounted in Piazza San Babila, or online at milanofashionweek.cameramoda.it.
Capasa: more support from the government is needed for the fashion sector
Il 2024 promises to be a uncertain year, tormented by the geopolitical situation. The president of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion knows this well Charles Capasa, which brought the requests of the Italian entrepreneurs in Parliament to raise awareness among institutions to act "to save a sector that makes us unique in the world: it is no coincidence that all the main foreign luxury companies have their products produced by our artisans" Capasa told Corriere.
Le requested measures revolve around three areas: protection of creativity, green and digital transition and training, the objective is to invest in an industry which then has a strong return on GDP. “There is little in the financial law with respect to the fashion industry. In general I don't see a great effort towards industrial planning" said Carpisa. Yet "the fashion industry has an important return for the State: just think that for every additional billion in turnover, 240 million end up in the State coffers between direct and indirect taxation".
It would be necessary to “help especially the small businesses which are the backbone of the sector" says Carpisa. “We must think that we have a supply chain of 60.000 companies with 600.000 employees, which does not have the strength to convert to digital and sustainable if we do not guarantee support”. Furthermore, we need to focus on work and training. “And we must not only think about the craftsmanship of the past, but also about that of the future: digital craftsmanship, the model maker who works in 3D Cad”
Pitti Uomo numbers: almost half of the brands come from abroad
I brands there will be 832, 46% of which from abroad, “with special events, with sections dedicated to young German designers and artisans and brands from Japan, perhaps the country that has always appreciated Italian excellence the most and shares its values linked to both craftsmanship and constant innovation on materials and styles. Without forgetting special exhibitions and installations between the stands” he recalled Raphael Napoleon CEO of Pitti Immagine, according to Il Sole24Ore. “In Florence we will have 386 buyers from the Americas, Asia, the Middle East and Europe, also thanks to the collaboration with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Ice Agency. In the top three places for buyers are Germany (66), the UK (64) and France (58). I believe it will be the most complete and international edition ever."
Men's Fashion: formal revisited is called Casual Chic
Il formal male, one of the Italian excellences, is no longer at the center of supply and desires and all the historic names of Made in Italy have embraced the demand for more versatile clothing and accessories, in shapes and materials. “Masculine elegance? Before we were in uniform, today we are freer...", he summarizes Antonio De Matteis, CEO of Kiton, the Neapolitan luxury brand that closed a record 2023 reaching 200 million in turnover (+25% on 2022).
However, the last glimpse of 2022, and then 2023 saw a return to classic elegance which is now called “Casual chic”, revisited and updated after the streetwear hangover and the pandemic season. New colors, new fabrics, more comfortable cuts, new silhouettes but still elegant shirts, ties, jackets, coats and shoes. As always, it was the market that guided this epochal transformation, in the wake of Millennials and Gen Z - especially Americans and Asians - who no longer want classic tailored suits but rather "revisited" ones, with extremely precious and tailor-made details.
On the contrary, all the classic brands that could afford it – Zegna, Loro Piana, Cucinelli, Kiton, Corneliani, Canali – are entered the casual, adding lines with more technical fabrics, trousers and shirts far removed from traditional models.
