Tough muzzle, small ears, sly eyes and black fur. The Nebrodi black pig, "u porcu nivuru", recognized as a breed of Italian black pig by the National Association of Pig Breeders, is a strong and independent animal. Hundreds of specimens roam free in the Nebrodi Park, the largest protected area in Sicily which extends in the province of Messina, touching Catania and Enna. And if this example of pig has become an emblem of quality and biodiversity it is only thanks to the work of a couple from Messina that they have saved a real native natural heritage.
And in the heart of the mountains Nebrodi, in Myrtle, rises The Paisanella (butcher, pork butcher and dairy) managed by the Agostino family who have specialized over the years in the processing of the meat of this prized black pig. Sixth daughter of a family from Castell'Umberto, Luisa together with her husband Sebastiano Agostino, brought back to life the project of the Sicily Region for the reintroduction and valorisation of the Nebrodi black pig, a native breed in danger of extinction due to its very slow growth.
This Sicilian piglet distinguishes itself from the others for its fat mass on the muscle: an important source of polyunsaturated fatty acids, or 45-48% oleic acid, a healthful fat similar to olive oil. Furthermore, this type of meat has good water retention and for this reason it manages to retain many nutritional values such as iron, vitamins, mineral salts, sugars and many others. Reason why this breed can be considered a "healthy meat”. Since 2000, the Nebrodi black pig has been Slow Food Presidium.
The Nebrodi black pig
Of medium-small size, the Sicilian black pig is characterized by a uniform black fur, an elongated snout and long limbs that make it a good grazer and walker. It is raised in the wild or semi-wild state and left free in the woods, feeding on the fruits of nature. Furthermore, it has a good resistance to diseases and climatic adversities. The specimens grow slowly but produce high quality meat. The reduction in the number of Nero Siciliano pigs raised on the island was due to the gradual disappearance of the woods that once covered a large part of the Sicilian hills, together with the strong introduction after the war of more productive and economically favorable foreign breeds. Thanks to the work of recent years, however, there has been a decisive recovery in the breeding of this breed, an example of biodiversity to be protected and safeguarded.
The history of the project
In particular, the project began over two decades ago, between the various breeding and slaughtering steps. Once we found the best way to raise them, we moved on to the processing of cured meats: at the beginning with the salami and sausage, therefore, following local traditions: cut from the stock, not using nitrites, nitrates or lactose but only natural casings. Then, however, thanks to the collaboration of the Region and thetheUniversity of Food Science and Technology of Parma have started processing for ham.
After years of study, the great discovery: using natural cellars, the perfumes of the products in the 18 months of maturation they had nothing to envy to Parma hams aged in thermo-controlled cells. Enough to be awarded by the University of Rome La Sapienza as the best healthy ham in the world. Subsequently, the Messina owner being celiac, she decided to study an amalgam for the outside of the ham using rice instead of flour and pork lard, thus also giving this added value. A very tasty and healthy product that has also been included (with company capocollo, salami and bacon) in 2014 in the Great Salumi d'Italia Guide of Gambero Rosso. And even earlier as Best in Sicily in 2011. The results are high quality hams and cured meats: among national and non-national customers, La Paisanella boasts the Holiday Inn chain and starred chefs such as Ciccio Sultano and Pino Cuttaia.
Thanks to the mountainous and wooded territory, the Nebrodi black pig has found its natural habitat, even if there are logistical problems such as shipments from Mirto. How did Luisa and her husband solve the problem? Over the years they have created a thicker polystyrene box, with ice inside and through a very collaborative shipping partner they have managed to make deliveries also to the North, guaranteeing the cold chain.
A high quality product but with approx 1.000 heads and a dozen breeders who, with their disciplinary, raise the animal and then give it to their salami factory, the Nebrodi black pig therefore remains a niche product. The company not only takes care of the prized piglet, but also of cows and sheep of the indigenous breed, a hundred goats and then the butcher's shop and the delicatessen, the salami factory and the dairy, of which each sector is supervised by a head of the family and will be passed down to future generations.
