The jewels will be on display at Christie's London from 22 to 23 October and at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, Geneva from 7 to 12 November, during the Christie's sales.
The transformable jewels will be the protagonists of the sale with innovative designs Art Deco by Cartier, including three exceptional brooches, formerly in the collection of Beatrice, Countess of Granard OBE (1883-1972) (estimate: CHF 180.000-220.000). Beatrice Mills, daughter of the great American financier and banker Ogden Mills, Beatrice became known as a famous landlady, owner and breeder of racehorses. In 1909 she married the XNUMXth Earl of Granard, living between Paris and the Château de Forbes in Ireland.
Additional outstanding pieces for sale include a Superb Art Deco Diamond Bandeau by Cartier, which can also be worn as a crewneck, two bracelets and a brooch (estimate: CHF 300.000-500.000). The bandeau is the most timeless head adornment, having been in fashion in the early XNUMXth century and enjoying a resurgence today. It transcended the Art Nouveau, Belle Époque and Art Deco period, where the bandeau was the most fashionable accessory. Additional examples of transformable jewelry from major jewelry houses include the iconic “zip” necklace with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels (estimate: 170.000-270.000 CHF).
The auction will also feature an unusual Belle Époque brooch in turquoise and diamonds, circa 1910, acquired by Dame Nellie Melba at the height of her career (estimate: CHF 250.000-350.000). In a long list of famous jewelry collectors, Dame Nellie Melba was one of the most prominent icons of the era and an established customer of Cartier. Helen Porter Mitchell, born in 1861 in Melbourne, decided from an early age that she would become a singer. After emigrating to Europe and studying in Paris with Mathilde Marchesi, who suggested that Nellie take the surname "Melba" after her hometown, Dame Nellie Melba has become one of the most popular singers of the late Victorian era and of the beginning of the XNUMXth century. She achieved international recognition as a classical musician and was honored in the late XNUMXth century by French chef Auguste Escoffier of the Savoy Hotel with the creation of Peach Melba.
Leading the auction is a sensational 7,03-carat Fancy Deep Blue Diamond ring mounted by Moussaieff (estimate: 10.000.000-14-14.000.000 francs) and a superb diamond ring of 46,93 carats of very high quality, D color, internally flawless clarity (estimate: CHF3-800,000). The best gems will be offered including a sensational 4,500,000 carat Burmese sapphire pendant (estimate: CHF 42,97-2,000,000), an important pair of earrings untreated Colombian emeralds of over 3,000,000 carats each (estimate: CHF 7,5. 1.000.000-1.500.000) and a Burmese pigeon blood red ruby ring of 3,88 carats (estimate: CHF 400.000-600.000). An important pearl and diamond necklace with one hundred and nineteen natural saltwater pearls (estimate: CHF 500.000-700.000) will also be offered.
The highlight of the auction are the jewels of the famous jewelery designer Pierre Sterlé, considered emblematic of the jewelery of the 50s and 60s. In 1934 Sterlé founded his atelier, on the Place Vendôme, and was considered somewhat of a revolutionary: atypical, daring and talented, receiving the prestigious De Beers International Diamond Award three years in a row. Sterlé reinvented the art of manipulating precious metal, placing gemstones in an elevated manner reminiscent of the Baroque period; creating a sense of movement in flexible, articulated mounts. He created mobile settings that enhanced the sparkle of the stones, varying their color according to the light. His overriding ambition was to challenge the technical constraints of jewelry design by allowing him to translate the visions of his vivid imagination into jewelry. He loved the effect of different gold colors combined in one object and various textured surfaces. Highlights of the collection include a beautiful citrine and diamond necklace and ring (estimate: CHF 40.000-60.000).
