Some want its derivative name from the late Latin buccellatum, “bitten” others from Latin Panis Buccella, a carved bread especially before cooking in the oven so that it could be easily broken by hand and taken to the "bucca". Over time, bread has assumed a circular or crown shape, with a hole in the center in the shape of a donut, hence the toponym of Buccellatus or Buccellarius. So bread with holes. The reason why is explained by the fact that it was widely used by sailors because it could be kept for a long time. The shapes were put on like rings on a stick.
During the Roman festivities the Buccellatus was aesthetically enriched with carvings of the pasta on the surface which thus assumed the appearance of a crown, later the Romans also began to associate it with fresh or dried fruits, such as figs, or with honey or salt .
Centuries later, a Palermo and surroundings the Christmas confectionary tradition provides for the presence of the Buccellato or, in dialect, Cucciddatu term derived from the Greek κωλλύρα or collùra or cuddura (flour dough).
In Sicily, in fact, every celebration has its dessert: the Sfinci for San Giuseppe; the Cuccìa for Santa Lucia, the arancini; for the feast of the dead; marzipan fruit, mostaccioli, petrafennula, dead bones; for Easter, and customs cleared for a particular occasion cassate, cannoli, pizzi cu l'ovu and marzipan sheep.
Buccellato therefore cannot be missing on Christmas tables. As is typical of the island, there are numerous recipes for each dish, which vary in ingredients and processing according to the areas, families and generational traditions. Each bell tower is jealous of its own gastronomic stories.
Mondo Food turned to Fabio Potenzano, Sicilian chef from Bagheria, well-known TV face, Chef first in the "Detto Fatto" program broadcast on Rai Due and since 2020 Chef of the program "È Semper Mezzogiorno" broadcast on Rai Uno, hosted by Antonella Clerici, to get the authentic recipe of the delicious Sicilian dessert.
Potenzano began working in the restaurant industry at the age of 14, traveling around Italy in hotels and restaurants, even starred, always driven by "curiosity and hunger to know and know" two qualities that have constantly accompanied him in his professional career, which made it possible to discover "how many nuances the work of the chef had working with Doctors, Trainers, Companies, personalities from the world of entertainment, sports, as a private chef". A path that finally led him to be professor of Enogastronomy at the Pietro Piazza Institute in Palermo, professor at Castalimenti and in other training schools, chef of the Italian National Chefs Team and trainer of the Italian Chefs Federation. In 2018 he gave life to "Tutti a Tavola", a pizza restaurant located in Bagheria. A concrete way – he says – to tell its simplicity.
“There is no Sicilian table – recalls the chef – that does not have buccellato or “cosi ruci” during the Christmas period. During family card games during the holiday season, buccellato always keeps company and is a good luck charm”. At this point, all that remains is to get to work
The Buccellato recipe
Ingredients:
For the pastry:
170 g of icing sugar
170 g lard
65 g of water
1 egg
500 g of 00 flour
Vanilla bean
Lemon peel
1 egg (for brushing)
Sale
For the stuffing:
500 g of dried figs
75 g of squash
75 g of candied tangerines
75 g of whole almonds
75 g of walnut kernels
75 g of whole hazelnuts
60 g of candied cedar
60 g of candied oranges
60 g of sultanas
40 g of dark chocolate chips
nutmeg
Cinnamon
Vanilla
Lemon, orange, mandarin zest
Dry Marsala
To decorate:
150 g of jelly
50 g of chopped pistachios
candied orange wedges
red cherries
For shortcrust pastry
First mix the lard, sugar and flavourings, then add the egg, water and salt. Work the compound until completely absorbed and finally incorporate the flour. Keep the pastry in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.
For the stuffing
Blanch the dried figs in water for a minute, dry them and then leave them to macerate in Marsala wine overnight. Drain and finely chop them in a meat grinder or cutter together with the pumpkin and candied mandarin. Add the almonds, walnuts and coarsely chopped toasted hazelnuts, the softened sultanas, the candied orange cubes, the dark chocolate chips to the fig mixture, flavor with the fresh lemon, mandarin and orange zest, then the nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla. Roll out 400 g of shortcrust pastry and form an elongated rectangle, insert about 650 g of filling in the center and form a cylinder, then close the ends forming a ring, decorate it by pinching it with tweezers or a fork, finally brush with the beaten egg. Bake at 170°C for about 25 minutes. Glaze the dessert with jelly and decorate it with chopped pistachios and candied fruit.
During family card games during the holiday period buccellato is always company and is a good luck charm.
