How many times have women said it: the fashion that shows on the catwalks of the weeks is not for real women, both in terms of actual use of the garments and in terms of the measures proposed. In other words: real women are one thing, catwalk fashion is another. But now King George himself is talking about it, or, we must give credit, talking about it again: it is no longer the time for clichés, not even in fashion.
Taking stock of the fashion week Milanese just closed, Giorgio Armani he glimpses, he says, some glimpses of normality. "Different stylists they understood that this is the moment of normality, of a real, sensible fashion. Always researching, as it should be, but it seems to me that fortunately certain "bad effects" have been somewhat forgotten, said Armani, recalling that he himself had always thought of collections to really dress women.
He didn't call his collection “Vibrations” for nothing
And this week too his fashion started exactly from here. The designer wanted to title this collection Vibrations, a term here understood as movement: light fabrics around the body, wave embroidery on garments, overlapping pieces that don't clutter. Everything seems weightless, but still well defined: the bag jackets worn with high-waisted trousers with pleats, the evening dresses with multi-layers of tulle covered in crystals, the flowing satin tunics worn with coordinated trousers and the waistcoats encrusted with embroidery paired with white silk trousers and tank tops.
Armani: “I have always thought that women should not be slaves to height and heels”
There is little black, a lot of blue, burnished gold and gray to open the show: "There's not even a bit of beige," Armani jokes with the doyen of fashion journalists Suzy Menkes after the show, as reported by La Repubblica . In fact, beige, one of its symbolic shades, is missing. But there are also many flat shoes for the evening, another classic of hers. “I have used them since my first collections,” recalls the designer. “I have always thought that women should not be slaves height and of that feline and sexy gait at all costs that the heels tall. It may very well be normal, but have a twinkle in your eye.”
Luisa Spagnoli seeks harmony between extremes
Also Luisa Spagnoli arises in this celebration of balance and measure. Rather than thinking in contrasts, as others have done, Nicoletta Spagnoli seeks harmony between extremes. The clothes that appear modest on the front, reveal the bare back on the back; the evening outfits are made of light cotton, the motifs reminiscent of heraldic coats of arms are reproduced in a jacquard version on the casual oversized cardigans. The sleeves of the classic blazers have been cut off so as to be transformed into colorful waistcoats, the severe tunics are made of satin.
From Brazil the soft curves of Karoline Vitto
One of the best surprises of the Milanese season is called Caroline Vitto, comes from Brazil, is based in London, and is in Milan thanks to the support of Dolce & Gabbana, which financed the collection and the fashion show. Vitto, for his items, starts from size 46 and up; his pieces are very sexy, they enhance the shapes thanks to portholes, slits and transparencies and have a joy and sensuality that has never been seen in collections for large bodies. Furthermore, as Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana note, in addition to being innovative, these pieces also require incredible technical skills to create. Karoline Vitto has all it takes to make her way.
