La best porchetta in Italy she is Sicilian. No Ariccia or Norcia where porchetta is practically an institution. This is the response, surprising for many, of the New York Times. The famous US magazine had the opportunity to celebrate our country's food and wine and included the porchetta from the province of Messina (based on Nebrodi black pigs) in the top 5 of world gastronomic specialties. But who produces the best porchetta in Italy, and according to the New York Times, in the world?
The credit goes to Joseph Oriti, owner of the restaurant "Vecchio Carro", in Caronia, in the province of Messina. Immersed in the splendid naturalistic scenery of the Nebrodi Park, the “Vecchio Carro” farmhouse and restaurant has been a consolidated reality for over two decades. But the real breakthrough comes more or less 10 years ago, along with numerous awards, such as: Best restaurant of the Best in Sicily in 2019 and the most recent recognition obtained from the guide Top Italian Food 2022 del Gambero Rosso dedicated to Italian excellence.
From Lazio to Tuscany to Abruzzo: porchetta reigns
Even if the crown for the best porchetta in Italy went to Sicily, there are many realities that can boast a respectable porchetta. Let's start from the assumption that porchetta is a typical dish of central Italy and of a few northern areas, whether it is Ariccia or Norcia and Caves in Umbria, of Campli in Abruzzo, southern Tuscany, the Marches. Porchetta is a real cult here.
In southern Tuscany, in the Castelli Romani in the south, in Sabina and in other areas of central Italy, it is flavored with rosemary. Typical are the Lazio ones of Selci (PAT) and that of Ariccia (IGP), where you can find the famous "fraschette", where you can taste porchetta, local wine and other typical dishes of the Lazio tradition (carbonara, amatriciana and tripe).
In Tusciain Umbria, in Brands and Romagna instead it is flavored with wild fennel. Typical of this tradition are the porchetta that is prepared in Cellere (F.lli Forati), Soriano nel Cimino, Bagnaia, Vignanello, Vallerano and Sutri (Tuscia in the Viterbo area) and in Costano, in Umbria. Porchetta from Campli, in Abruzzo, differs in aromas, cooking times and methods (wild fennel is not used).
Made with pigs reared in a semi-wild state, without antibiotic feed, fed with cereals for a natural growth path.
Oriti runs the restaurant together with his wife Eliana Carroccetto, chef in charge. Specialized in the semi-wild breeding of black pigs of the native Nebrodi breed - in danger of extinction - and consequently, in the production of porchetta, the company has become a point of reference for Sicilian culinary tours. But what makes it so special?
To make their famous porchetta, the taste of the meat is enhanced through a massage process together with the Sicilian sea salt, wild fennel and other spices from the company which precedes cooking in a wood oven for 12 hours at just over 72 degrees. Once out of the oven, it is quickly blast chilled and vacuum packed for three months. A lot depends on the method though breeding in the semi-wild state, natural, without using antibiotic feed but cereals to obtain a natural growth path.
Ma when is pork roasted? The piglet must always be young (maximum four months) and around 15 kilos in weight. After this age and when the limit weight is exceeded, sausages, salami, lard and fresh meat are produced.
So it takes a lot of patience and foresight, which is why his porchetta is a niche product that Oriti's company sells to a few users, with which it participates in fairs and events with the delicious "street food" sandwich.
Oriti de “il vecchio carro” considered the king of street food
Il sandwich with pork of Nebrodi black pig from Il Vecchio Carro is the most loved specialty of the Messina Street Food Festfor the third consecutive year. Already in 2018 and 2019 Giuseppe had won the first prize as the most popular operator of the great street food festival promoted and organized by Confesercenti Messina. Also for this fourth edition, which has returned after the two-year stop due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the sandwich with porchetta and caramelized onion has triumphed once again among the 40 specialties from all over Italy. Always present in the most important events organized in Sicily and throughout Italy, Oriti has become the king of porchetta and street food.
