From first ladies to Hollywood stars, to European queens: Valentino Garavani, the emperor of fashion disappeared on Monday, January 19, 2026For decades, he has dressed some of the world's most admired women, transforming high fashion into a narrative of red carpets and dresses that have become part of the collective memory. Among the icons who have helped establish him outside of Italy is Jacqueline Kennedy, who chose the designer for her second marriage to Aristotle Onassis in 1968. Over the years, the list of "Valentino brides" has grown: Claudia Schiffer for her wedding to Matthew Vaughn in 2002, Jennifer Lopez for her marriage to Chris Judd in 2001, but also royal figures such as the Queen Maxima of Holland (2002) and the princess Madeleine of Sweden (2011), united by a romantic and elegant taste, made of lace and embroidery.
Valentino: Stars Dressed by the Emperor of Fashion
But if there is a stage that has consecrated Valentino as a global brand, that was the Oscar red carpetThe first to collect the statuette wearing one of her creations was Jessica Lange in 1983, wearing a sea green dress covered in sequins. In 1991 Sophia Loren She chose a black Valentino embroidered with lace to receive the Oscar for her career. But the image already remembered remains that of Julia Roberts in 2001, when she won Best Actress for Erin Brockovich wearing a black dress with white trim and a tulle train that opened to reveal further light lines.
Valentino, farewell to the genius: the fate of the economic empire
But now that the emperor is sadly no longer with us, many are wondering what fate will befall his empireIt is true that Valentino had already given some indications, imagining a modern luxury hub, capable of bringing its timeless elegance "beyond our people" thanks to "alliances with groups that guarantee important synergies". But what will really be the future of a brand created in the Sixties and which in recent decades has been at the centre of a complex sequence of handoversFrom the founder's direct control to that of international investors, always with the same goal: to continue to be synonymous in the world with the style and beauty of Made in Italy.
Valentino: who controls the brand today?
The brand is now controlled by Mayhoola for Investments, Qatari fund at the head of the historic Roman fashion house. Richard Bellini, managing director of the company Qatar, has been Valentino's CEO since September 1st. Chosen as successor to Jacopo Venturini, who had been at the helm of the brand since 2020 and resigned after a period of leave, went to join the creative director Alessandro Michele, appointed in March 2024 after the departure of Pierpaolo PiccioliThe two had previously worked together at Gucci, where the designer was creative director for seven years, from 2015 to 2022.
Purpose of Bellini's appointment, in the midst of the luxury crisis, that of dealing with the slowdown in brand sales, which closed 2024 with revenues of 1,31 billion euros, down 2% compared to the previous year, and with a Ebitda dropped 22% to 246 million euros. In addition to having to manage relations with the French luxury group Kering, which in 2023 acquired a 30% stake in the historic fashion house for 1,7 billion dollars, with the commitment to purchase the remaining 70%. A structure that will not change, however, before 2028, as the French group itself assured in recent months by announcing a modification to the shareholders' agreement according to which the put options for the 70% stake, exercisable in 2026 and 2027, have been postponed to 2028 and 2029 respectively. The call option held by the French group has been postponed to 2029. Francois-Henri Pinault to acquire the stake from Mayhoola initially in 2028.
The move from the Qatari fund to the French will be only the latest in a series of transfers of ownership. The first was in 1998, when the maison was sold to the Hdp group, also owned by Gianni Agnelli, for approximately 500 billion lire. In 2002, the Marzotto Group, which Valentino took over from hdp for 240 million euros. From the spin-off of the Marzotto activities in 2005, the Valentino Fashion Group. Two years later, in 2007, the fund Permira acquired the majority, together with members of the Marzotto family. Another turning point came in 2012, when Mayhoola for Investments acquired the entire group for an estimated value of between 700 and 720 million euros, including the license. M MissoniKering's entry into the market in 2023 and, last September, the decision to postpone the exercise of the options.
Valentino: The Foundation remains in Giammetti's hands.
Since 2016, the year of its foundation, it has remained in the firm hands of Giancarlo giammetti, a historic partner of the emperor of fashion, the Valentino Foundation, which preserves and promotes the legacy of the famous designer, with missions of education, promotion of beauty and charity.
