In the heart of the city of Bologna, among the narrow cobbled streets and ancient porticoes, lies a culinary secret that only a few know: the Bolognese Cutlet. Also known as the Petroniana, in honor of San Petronio, patron saint of the city to whom the large church in Piazza Maggiore is dedicated, this dish has become the flagship of the Association of Friends of the Petroniana, a group of connoisseurs who dedicate themselves to the search for the perfect cutlet .
The roots of Petroniana
The Bolognese cutlet, similar but different from its Milanese cousin, is a creation that has its roots in past centuries. It is said that this dish could already be enjoyed at banquets in the seventeenth century, prepared with care and love by the skilled hands of Bolognese chefs. There for successful corporate training traditional, filed with the Chamber of Commerce of Bologna, includes some fundamental ingredients: thinly beaten veal rump, raw ham (preferably from Parma) that envelops the meat, enriched by melted Parmigiano Reggiano with a touch of broth.
Bolognese chefs often play with the rules of tradition to create unique variations of Petroniana. Some dare with a generous splash of mixed cheeses, while others further elevate the dish with flakes of white truffle, a treasure from the Bolognese Apennines.
Bolognese and Milanese cutlet: here are the differences
The Petroniana cutlet and the Milanese cutlet represent two jewels of Italian cuisine, each with its own distinctive characteristics. The most obvious difference lies in the cut of meat used: while the Milanese cutlet boasts a bone-in veal cutlet, the Petroniana prefers the boneless rump, expertly beaten to obtain a thin and crunchy consistency. This is also reflected in the preparation, with the Milanese being left high and the Petroniana beaten until obtaining a thin consistency. In addition to the cut of meat, the differences extend to the garnishes: while the Milanese cutlet is traditionally served without additions, the Petroniana is enriched with slices of raw ham and a generous sprinkling of Parmigiano Reggiano. But it is above all at the final moment that the two cutlets stand out: if the Milanese is typically served as it is, the Petroniana is completed with the addition of slices of white truffle or black scorzone, giving the dish a touch of elegance and refinement unique in Emilian cuisine.
The recipe for Bolognese cutlet by Irina Steccanella
Irina Steccanella of the trattoria of the same name in Savigno celebrates the great tradition of the Bolognese cutlet, enriching it with the unique and luxurious flavor of the truffle. The chef told Cibo Today about her Petroniana version of her.
Ingredients:
• 4 slices of boneless veal chop
• Flour to taste
• 2 eggs, beaten
• Breadcrumbs to taste
• Butter
• 4 slices of raw ham, not too salty
• Meat broth, one ladle
• Parmigiano Reggiano aged 24 months, abundant
• White truffle (from October to December) or black scorzone (in summer), gills
Method:
Prepare the slices of boneless veal chop, making sure they are a nice pink color and slightly oily. Dip each slice in the flour, then in the beaten egg and finally in the breadcrumbs, pressing lightly to make the breading adhere well. In a large skillet, melt some butter over medium heat. Add the cutlet slices and brown on both sides until smooth crust golden e crispy. Once the cutlets are golden brown, place a slice of raw ham on top for each slice of meat. Add a ladle of beef broth to the pan, allowing the cutlets to “glaze” in this flavorful liquid. Sprinkle generously with the Parmigiano Reggiano 24 months grated, which will delicately melt on the surface of the cutlets, creating a golden and crunchy crust. At this point, it's time to transform the cutlet into a real Petroniana: add the white truffle flakes (or black scorzone, depending on the season) on the surface of the cutlets. Cover the pan with a lid and leave to simmer until the cheese is completely melted and the truffle has released its intoxicating aromas. Serve the Petroniana cutlets piping hot, perhaps accompanied by a side dish of seasonal vegetables or a fresh salad.
Bad variants of the Petroniana do not stop here. Some bread the cutlets are breaded with an exceptional flour, then moistened with a bechamel dense and tasty, in turn flavored with the addition of grated Parmesan. The famous Cordon Bleu was inspired by this recipe, a dish that has had some success in the industrial cuisine of ready meals distributed by large-scale retail trade.
