Violino, the tasty Valchiavenna goat ham

It is an original and extravagant concert that is played on the cold Christmas nights of the Valchiavenna, on the mountains that prelude the Passo dello Spluga, when families gather to meet again at the end of a hard day's work for the end of year celebrations. Everyone around a table passes a particular "violin" from hand to shoulder and, as if it were a precious Stradivarius, with a bow which in the particular case is a sharp knife they "play" it by slicing its own portion thus releasing a symphony unique flavors of its kind.

Because that violin is a very tasty ham made with the leg and shoulder of goats reared in a semi-wild state in these mountain areas. The custom of cutting the ham holding it on the shoulder by the leg is lost in the mists of time. The Valchiavenna nestled in the Alps was already populated in prehistoric times by tribes of hunters who then turned into breeders who used to bring their cattle to the pastures of the upper Spluga valley along paths that were in use until a few decades ago.

The name “Violin de carna sèca o spalèta” was given to him instead in 1930 by the poet John Bertacchi poet, literary critic and university professor in Padua, a native of Valchiavenna, author of Il canzoneniere delle alpi inspired precisely by the way it was sliced. The tradition of processing this particular cured meat is still kept alive today by some families who produce it for their own use for the end of the year festivities. But also by a few artisans who wanted to preserve the historical memory of this product which has rightfully entered the list of Slow Food Presidia not only for its unique flavor but also to protect it from imitations from other regions.

The hams are very small in size, about 2 kg for the front shoulder, the most valuable part, and 3 and a half kg for the rear leg. The animals from which the Violins of Val Chiavenna are made are goats of the Frisia and Frontalasca mestizo breed, originally from Valtellina, today there are about 6.000. Not many to tell the truth, but the entry of its hams into the category of slow food principals and the commercial success of recent times has prompted many farmers to increase their breeding which was considerably reduced a few decades ago.

The animals must feed naturally with the wild herbs and plants of the mountain pastures. The diet can be supplemented with yellow flour and bran. It is precisely due to this diet that the meat of the violins takes on a characteristic spicy and wild flavour.

As far as processing is concerned, the meats, after being slaughtered, are left to hang for one or two days and are then covered in a brine of aromatic herbs – and here every craftsman and every family jealously guards their own secret – so let's say that it can be made up of a mix of your choice: salt and pepper, of course, then beech, juniper, rosemary, bay leaves, garlic, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg and a glass of wine. We then move on to smoking which, to give a particular taste to the meat, takes place in fireplaces by burning beech wood. Finally, the Violins are hung up for the seasoning which goes from 3 to 6 months, but it can also last up to 12 months in the Crotti, typical structures of the Valchiavenna, natural cellars formed by boulders from ancient landslides from which the "sorel" blows, a current of air at a constant temperature of 8°C, therefore warm in the winter and cool in the summer, which makes the environment ideal for the maturation of the wine and the seasoning of cured meats and sausages.

Over time they have become places for meeting and socializing with friends, where they meet to discuss the facts of the country, play cards, have a glass of wine or have a snack. Some of these, larger in size, have become real characteristic restaurants. And here, a slice of violin accompanied by rye bread and washed down with a glass of good wine can give real pleasure to the palate and the spirit.