Francesco Paolo Avallone, a law professor with a passion for history and oenology, had researched for a long time before giving life to his vineyards in the Ager Falernus, an area of Campania between Mount Massico, the Savone river and the slopes of the extinct volcano of Roccamonfina , today in the province of Caserta. Indeed, in ancient times Falerno was produced here, the wine of emperors, the first DOC in history, lost with phylloxera and traced with the research work of the scholar attracted by the stories of Pliny and the verses of Virgil and Horace.
A heritage of oenological archeology brought to light with the start of the breeding of the vines loved by the ancient Romans, today entrusted to the children Salvatore and Maria Ida who left their careers between togas and feluccas and became "winemakers in Campania Felix" as recited ' company label and lead with passion "Villa Matilde Avallone", created by the parent 60 years ago. Here then is Aglianico, the ancient Hellenico; here is Piedirosso from which Falerno Rosso is obtained; and above all Falanghina, destined for the production of Falerno Bianco, Vigna Caracci and Spumante Mata.
All vines from the San Castrese and Parco Nuovo estates which extend (together with that of Pietrafusa in the province of Avellino) for over 110 hectares, of which 70 are vineyards. Here the terroir enhances the mineral notes thanks to the volcanic nature together with the marine and brackish notes emerging with the nearby Tyrrhenian Sea, in a unique microclimate. "It is no coincidence that it was chosen 2500 years ago by the ancient Romans", observes Maria Ida Avallone as her gaze lingers on the Falerno glass of Massico Bianco dop that accompanies a plate of "Roman-style" fried fish from the kitchens of the Il Ceppo restaurant From Rome.
Straw yellow, elegant in the perfume, the Falerno del Massico Bianco in the glass brings hints of ripe fruit, mango and mandarin, peach and passion fruit, accompanied by orange blossom and broom. A balanced and velvety flavor then makes the "vinum album Phalangium" of the Romans a precious companion in combination with appetizers and vegetables (12 euros in the cellar for the 2019 vintage bottle). As well as the Vigna Caracci, Falerno del Massico white dop, which goes well with seafood cuisine, combined with veal with tuna sauce, with its flavor and minerality and the aromas of lemon flowers and eucalyptus on the nose.
Produced only in the best vintages of grapes harvested in the vineyard of the same name, it is a wine of great elegance and persistence (27 euros in the cellar for the 2016 bottle). At Villa Matilde Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino and Taurasi are also produced, the vines of which are now grown on the Pietrafusa estate. Elite wines, elegant long-lived with a strong reference to the past and to the regional tradition. But to counterbalance the recipe for pennoni with white veal sauce and porcini mushrooms on a hot summer day is Falerno del Massico Rosso, the most famous in history, celebrated by Virgil in his Georgics, made with Aglianico and Piedirosso grapes raised at slopes of the Roccamonfina volcano.
Intense and complex, it gives off hints of black fruits, blackberries, raspberries, cherries in the glass. Elegant and harmonious, it was produced for the first time in 1975 (13 euros in the cellar for the 2016 vintage). Finally, duck breast arrives on the table and red is still the master. It is Vigna Camarato, Falerno del Massico Doc Riserva, fruit of the long oenological work of Villa Matilde made with the contribution of Riccardo Cotarella, dark red in color, intense in aromas, with pepper, chocolate and wild berries dominating the nose together with coffee and licorice, with a warm and dry taste, a powerful and ancient wine (45 euros in the cellar for the 2011 bottle).
A strong and complex conclusion to the tasting that began with the Brut classic method sparkling wine, also from Villa Matilde, Mata Rosè, with a delicate perlage and intense notes of wild strawberries, cassis and pomegranate, fresh and thick on the palate, capable of opening with joy the dances of a summer lunch (22 euros in the cellar). A path of historical oenological knowledge that enhances the long research work of the cultured and passionate father of Salvatore and Anna Ida Avallone.
