Cultivated since ancient times and widespread throughout the Mediterranean basin and in western Asia up to Oman, the caper plant grows spontaneously on limestone cliffs, in the cliffs, on old walls, often forming tufts with elegant long hanging branches thanks to its very limited water needs. In all cities that have historic medieval, Renaissance or Roman walls, during their flowering period it becomes a colorful element of decoration with its softly colored flowers. But the flower-fruits of this plant, widely used in the kitchen for sauces and condiments, have some nutraceutical properties unknown to most people so it is good to collect them in good weather to create tasty dishes but also to give a strong invigorating source to our body.
Capers are in fact an exceptional source of antioxidants: quercetin has antibacterial, anticancer, analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties, while rutin strengthens the capillaries and inhibits the formation of platelet aggregates, thus promoting good circulation in the smaller blood vessels. Traditional medicine also recommends capers to relieve pain of rheumatic origin. And it doesn't end there because capers are used as appetite stimulants, to relieve stomach pain and to fight flatulence. It also seems that in cases of obesity, rutin helps reduce bad cholesterol. If we then want to go into nutritional details, just think that a spoonful of packaged capers contains 12 IU of vitamin A, 0,4 mg of vitamin C, 0,08 mg of vitamin E, 0,056 mg of niacin, 0,012 mg of riboflavin, 0,002 mg of vitamin B6, 2,1 µg of vitamin K. And then large quantities of sodium, potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, selenium.
When we talk about capers, our thoughts immediately go to Sicilian gastronomy which makes extensive use of them for some of the best-known dishes of its gastronomic tradition.
But on Lake Garda, in Gargnano among the ancient streets outside the inhabited village of Gargnano, it is not uncommon to come across lush green bushes sprouting between the stones of the walls of lemon groves and olive groves. It is the caper plants, which grow spontaneously and luxuriant here, that underline how special the climate of this area is: a lake coast that believes itself to be a marine coast. And there is a thriving production activity in the area producing capers packaged in bags or jars.
Alberto Bertani, chef of the QB Duepuntozero restaurant in Salò (BS), is a convinced and fascinated supporter of the gastronomic and nutraceutical properties of the caper, to the point of having dedicated several dishes to this product with a menu with the significant name "Cappers che menu". “For years – he explains – we have been offering dishes based on freshwater fish, capers and lemons. The capers are produced and harvested personally by my parents in Gargnano (BS). We use the buds, the fruits also called "cucunci" and the leaves. We usually preserve the leaves in vinegar, the capers in salt, dried, powdered, sanded and also in desserts".
Born in 1979, Alberto Bertani originally from Gargnano, grew up among vineyards, olive trees and citrus groves... and capers and the territory is the mantra of his cuisine: «Simple, tasty and made with respect for the raw material and the territory» which earned him a mention in the Michelin Guide and in the Gambero Rosso Guide.
More than three or four raw materials never appear in his culinary creations, linked both to the Garda area and capable of ranging towards broader horizons: his cuisine, in fact, is a continuous journey between lake, land and sea. An innovative cuisine, therefore, where a pinch of tradition is not missing and which sets itself as its objective". And that "QB" that he inserted in the sign of his restaurant is an explicit reference to the "qb" of the recipes, to that "just enough", an entirely Italian dose that heralds the use of a certain "quantity of feeling" to ensure the success of any dish.
Recipe for puttanesca tuna tartare
Doses for 4 people
for the confit date tomatoes
300 g fresh datterini tomatoes
2 cloves of garlic
4 sprigs of thyme
6 basil leaves
Extra virgin olive oil from Garda
1 tablespoon of powdered sugar
Fine salt
for the olive powder
100 g pitted Taggiasca olives
for the tartare
500 g Mediterranean bluefin tuna
50 g pitted and chopped Taggiasca olives
60 g fresh Gargnano capers
4 basil leaves
to garnish
16 Cantabrian anchovy fillets
a few dried capers
shoots
caper leaves
black olive powder
for the confit datterini cream
Take 300 g of datterini tomatoes, cut them in half, place them on a plate with the skin side in contact with the plate, add the crushed garlic cloves, the thyme sprigs, the basil leaves. Season with extra virgin olive oil, icing sugar and salt.
Cook in a static oven at 120°C for 1 hour and a half, until they become confit. Once ready, remove the herbs and garlic cloves, put the confit datterini tomatoes in a blender and blend until you obtain a smooth, thick cream. for the olive powder
Lay the pitted Taggiasca olives in the dryer until completely dehydrated. Then blend them until you obtain a powder.
Both the olive powder and the confit date tomatoes can be prepared in advance. The date tomatoes can be stored in the refrigerator for 10 days and the powder can be stored in a glass jar at room temperature.
Cut the tuna into cubes, place it in a bowl, season it with chopped Taggiasca olives, Gargnano capers, a few julienned basil leaves, salt and oil.
Spread the confit datterini cream on a plate, place the tuna tartare, garnish with the rolled Cantabrian anchovies, dried capers, sprouts, caper leaves and black olive powder.
