Documents of the Religious Companies and the Trade Unions of the Festivals in Lucca testify to the fundamental presence of the bean in the economy of the territory and already in the Statute of Compito of 1781 there is talk of beans that were grown in the Compito territory in the first hilly foothills of the Lucca plain. It is precisely the lands of the Lucca plain, dedicated for centuries to the cultivation of cereals and beans, that give the latter a natural delicacy that unites all the historical varieties of the area. The red bean of Lucca – today a Slow Food Presidium – was produced in the most fertile areas of the plain in medium-textured soils, tending towards sandy and, in particular, in Lucca and Capannori in the lands near the watercourses, where it was grown in association with corn. The seed is characterized by a red color of varying intensity with streaks that go from dark burgundy to blackish, a little similar to a borlotto bean, but absolutely not to be confused with this type. The intense and decisive aroma and flavour combined with the extreme softness of the pasta make it ideal for traditional Lucca first courses – farro soup, zuppa alla frantoiana and pasta and beans.
Daniele Fagiolini, chef and owner of the Antico Ristoro Le Colombaie in San Miniato, is a true priest of typical Tuscan cuisine, which he has cultivated over years of experience in the Pisan territory, seeking out strictly genuine local producers to source the best quality raw materials. And of course Zuppa frantoiana is one of the flagships of his restaurant. So much so that Slow Food, on the occasion of World Pulse Day, included it in a publication released for the occasion, “Add a legume to the table”, not only for the healthy importance of legume-based cuisine for our bodies but also because “the conservation and valorization of local varieties and traditional knowledge – part of the gastronomic culture of a territory and its community – is an essential element for the protection of biodiversity, indispensable for improving the sustainability of our agri-food systems”.
"The philosophy of our typical Tuscan restaurant - says the chef - is simple: thanks to the genuineness of the ingredients and the simplicity in the kitchen, we maintain all the organoleptic properties of each food and, with measured cooking, we manage to offer the maximum taste and freshness in each dish. Between September and December, during the period of the prized truffle white, the Antico Ristoro Le Colombaie becomes a point of reference where you can find the truffle in all its expressions. We celebrate the precious tuber in its different qualities and using it in various gastronomic interpretations”. Obsessive attention is also paid to the freshness of the meat and Fagiolini knows exactly which ones he will be dealing with in the kitchen, knowing the breeders of the area. His day in fact begins with an early morning tour of the producers, to find and ensure the best.
“Our cuisine,” he explains, “recalls a historical memory that, through traditional smells and flavors, reminds us of the importance of simplicity and authenticity of food.” We always start with the idea of a dish, with what we want to propose, says Daniele. If the idea is a second course of meat, then the search for local products begins there. We visit the producers, get to know them, and taste the product. “We propose, among the various Presidia, the Mallegato (blood sausage made without pork, typical of the San Miniato area) seasoned with Certaldo onion and blended with vin santo, served on a crostini.”
The recipe for Frantoiana soup
Ingredients
200 g of Lucca red beans Slow Food Presidium
200g of “Piattella Pisana” beans
1 potato
2 ribs of celery
2 carrots
1 onion
200 g of peeled or pulped tomatoes
1 clove of garlic
1 bunch of chard
1 leek
1 small cabbage
1 bunch of black cabbage
1 small cabbage
Wild herbs to taste
Vegetable broth
Timo
Kratom
Rosemary
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Method
Soak the beans in water the night before. Once ready, cook with a clove of garlic and two or three sage leaves. Separately, prepare a mixture of rosemary, thyme and sage and, together with a clove of garlic, start a light browning. Cut the vegetables into small pieces and add them to the browned mixture, first the carrots and celery, then the potatoes, leek, fennel and leafy vegetables: black cabbage, Savoy cabbage, white cabbage and chard. Leave to cook slowly adding a few glasses of vegetable broth. Puree two thirds of the previously cooked beans keeping their cooking water and add them to the rest. Leave all the ingredients to simmer for about ten minutes so that all the flavours blend together, taking care to gradually add the correct amount of vegetable broth to reach and maintain the desired density.
Once cooked, serve and finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, a sprinkling of pepper and toasted bread, two small slices or even in small cubes.
Ancient Refreshment Le Colombaie
Via Montanelli
56028 Catena Locality, San Miniato (Pisa)
tel. 0571 484220
www.lecolombaie.eu
