Originally from India and China, eggplants have a fascinating history that dates back thousands of years when they were even appreciated for their medicinal properties.
During the Middle Ages, eggplants were introduced to the Middle East and North Africa via Arab trade routes. The Arabs helped spread eggplants throughout the region, even bringing them to Europe.
They arrived in the old continent around the 13th century, brought by the Arabs to Spain. From there, they gradually spread to other parts of the continent, including Italy. At first, aubergines were not very popular in Europe, as they were believed to be poisonous and were used as garden ornaments. In Europe, they were practically not consumed until 1700, as the vegetable was considered dangerous: being a relative of Belladonna, they believed that the “mala insana” caused fever, epilepsy and even madness. It was not until the XNUMXth century that these beliefs were swept away by the Great Pilgrim Artusi, who recommended them in the kitchen. The time that has passed has therefore done justice to this extraordinary vegetable, increasingly appreciated and revalued for its unique flavor and versatility in the kitchen: aubergines lend themselves to being grilled, baked, used in soups, stewed, au gratin with breadcrumbs and various ingredients, processed in Sicilian or Calabrian caponata but above all in Italy, as a base for the succulent parmigiana. Consequently, they have rightfully entered first into Mediterranean cuisine, then into Nordic cuisine and finally into Asian cuisine.
But it is reductive to think of aubergines only in terms of gastronomic goodness, few people know that in reality aubergines also contain important nutritional principles.
Eggplants are a good source of vitamins and minerals such as vitamin C, vitamin K, vitamin B6, thiamine, niacin, magnesium, phosphorus, and copper. They contain antioxidants, such as anthocyanins, which can help protect cells from damage caused by free radicals. They are high in fiber, which helps maintain a healthy digestive system and, according to some research, may even help reduce the risk of heart disease and diabetes as they help reduce cholesterol levels and improve blood circulation. As a low-calorie food, they are also ideal for those trying to maintain or lose weight.
And today we find aubergines in a very tasty and refined dish by Giovanni Ricciardella, a young and established chef at Cascina Vittoria in Rognano, between Milan and Pavia, someone who had cooking in his blood since he was very young, to the point that at the age of 12, after school and after finishing his homework, he would rush to help his grandmother prepare fresh pasta and cakes in the afternoon.
And so it is that after middle school, he enrolled at the Hotel Institute of Pavia and at 16 he began working in the kitchens alongside great masters of cooking such as Antonino Cannavacciuolo, Iginio Massari, Rolando Morandin and Davide Oldani. And of course the awards arrived immediately: 2 Hats from the 2018 guide of “L'Espresso” and the Crown of Gatti / Massobrio which “crowns” his cuisine as the best in all of Pavia and the Province. Also in March 2018 he was chosen by “Identita' golose” as one of the youngest speakers at the 14th “Italian Congress of signature cuisine”. Then in October 2019 he won the Festival degli Chef di Sanremo, a national event where 8 emerging Chefs chosen by Italian critics compete every year: Ricciardella with his “Plin alla Milanese…Omaggio a Milano” was awarded by the president of the jury Carlo Cracco. In 2019 he was chosen by the Chamber of Commerce of Pavia as Chef Ambassador of Pavese cuisine in the world, reinterpreting the great classics of Pavese cuisine such as Cassoeula, risottos and Pavese soup. At the same time as his passion for traditional cuisine revisited in a modern and creative way, Ricciardella also carries on his old passion for leavened products and immediately conquers important national positions: he attends a master's degree with the maestro Morandin and begins to produce and sign his artisanal colomba which immediately intrigues the Corriere della Sera "Style" which includes it among the 20 colomba to try in Italy in April 2020 and also in April 2021 his Colomba is selected by GAMBERO ROSSO among the best in Italy. And in 2024, Gambero Rosso again awards his artisanal panettone in first place, judging it the best in Italy.
His secret? Starting from simple ingredients to create a refined gastronomic proposal, which stands out for its execution capable of leaving its mark, a fresh, personal and substantial cuisine. Where tradition is not a limit but a starting point to dare to play with textures, flavors, and unexpected presentation of the dish that pleasantly surprise, in form and taste.
This week the chef offers readers of Mondo Food one of his signature dishes: the Millefoglie di melanzane with the three consistencies of parmesan, hot, cold and crunchy (a modern version of parmigiana), a dish that embodies the concept of his cuisine by reworking simple ingredients to create an intriguing play of consistencies.
The recipe for the Millefoglie of aubergines and the three consistencies of Parmigiano Reggiano
Ingredients for 4 people:
For the eggplant parmigiana
1 kg Peeled tomatoes
500 g Fiordilatte mozzarella
2 black round aubergines
1 clove of garlic
1 Bunch of basil
00 type flour
Extra virgin olive oil to taste
Sunflower seed oil to taste
(the floured aubergines must be completely immersed in the oil during frying)
Salt to taste
For the hot parmesan (fondue)
300 g Parmigiano Reggiano 24 months (grated)
300 g Fresh cream
300 g Whole milk
Salt to taste
For the cold parmesan (ice cream)
700 g Milk
300 g Parmigiano Reggiano 24 months (grated)
200 g Fresh cream
120 g sugar
10 g Salt
4 g Carob flour
For the crispy parmesan (chips)
200 g Parmigiano Reggiano 24 months (grated)
Proceedings
For the aubergine millefeuille:
Prepare a classic tomato sauce in advance by frying the sieved peeled tomatoes and sliced aubergines in oil and garlic (peel the aubergines and cut them into slices on the long side, about half a centimetre thick, flour them and fry them in sunflower seed oil at 170 degrees until golden). Spread the fried aubergines on a sheet of straw paper and let them rest. Grease a single-serving mould and assemble the parmigiana by alternating the aubergines, the mozzarella cut into thin slices, the tomato sauce and the basil leaves.
Bake at 180°C for 15 minutes.
For the warm Parmesan
Heat (without boiling) the fresh cream and milk in a saucepan and add the grated parmesan until you obtain a creamy consistency, emulsify everything well and filter through a sieve.
For the cold parmesan
Put the milk in a saucepan and heat up to 70 degrees; when the milk reaches temperature, add the grated parmesan and blend with a mini pimer; let everything rest for at least 2 hours, so that the milk takes on the flavour of the cheese.
At this point, filter the milk with a strainer to obtain a parmesan-flavored milk, add the cream, sugar, salt and carob flour, put everything back on the heat until about 85°C without boiling, stirring with a whisk. Then let it cool and put everything in an ice cream maker until creamy or alternatively pour everything into a tub and freeze in the freezer overnight.
Store in the freezer for max 3/4 days.
For the crunchy parmesan
Arrange the grated parmesan on some baking paper, giving it the shape of a disk (using a pastry cutter) and put it in the microwave for about 2 minutes.
Form golden brown discs and leave to cool.
Welcome
Place 1 ladle of hot parmesan fondue in a soup bowl, place the aubergine millefeuille on top, add a spoonful of cold parmesan ice cream (under which place a few flakes of salt to create a sweet-salty contrast) and a disk of crunchy parmesan on top of the ice cream.
Cascina Vittoria Restaurant
Address: Via Roma, 26
27010 Rognano PV
Phone: 0382 185 5538
Reservations: cascinavittoria.it
Telephone: + 39 0382 18 555 38
