Not to be confused with passatelli because they are wider but not with tagliatelle either because they are thinner. And they are keen to stand out because their history goes back a long way: In Piedmont the Tajarin made their appearance towards the middle of the 400s, in the kitchens of the farmhouses of the Langhe and Monferrato. Their origins are poor because during the week, life was that of hard work in the fields and only on the occasion of holidays or important celebrations could women steal time from their toil to sit at the pastry board and work this tasty pasta by hand. Very tasty due to the many yolks that were used for its preparation, it is therefore understandable why they could only be eaten on holidays. In fact, unlike the various types of homemade pasta throughout Italy, for a kilo of Tajarin of eggs you needed around fifteen and even traditionalists in some areas of Piedmont expected as many as 30, with all due respect to cholesterol. The result is what we know as a pasta full of flavor and color that is unique in its kind.
Tajarin is not the classic egg pasta recipe widespread throughout Italy with 1 whole egg for every 30 grams of flour. In fact, the deep yellow color and intense flavor of Piedmontese tagliolini are given by the abundance of eggs with which they are produced. But how many egg yolks are included in the original recipe? As often happens in the Italian culinary tradition, even in this case the answer is not simple. In part, the number of eggs varies depending on the area, also because a lot depends on the size of the yolk and the absorption capacity of the flour, but tajarin purists arrive at 10 yolks per kilogram of flour (yes, you understood correctly). However, excellent recipes are widespread which include 15-XNUMX egg yolks per kilo of flour plus a few whole eggs. Whatever the number of yolks in the tajarin, the objective is always the same: to obtain a long, thin, highly fragrant and golden-coloured pasta. Country that you go seasoning that you can find for this traditional Piedmontese pasta: a Langhe ragù based on lard, sage, rosemary and farmyard giblets (poultry and rabbit livers, crests, kidneys, hearts, with Bra sausage, with roast and the one based on bacon, onion and red wine that is eaten in the Cuneo area.
November in Alta Langa means white truffles, especially in the Faula Ristorante of Casa di Langa, the refined resort of Cerreto Langhe located between the wine regions of Barolo, Barbaresco and Alta Langa immersed in a 40-hectare park where you can try your hand in truffle hunting among oaks, poplars and lime trees, species that contribute to the growth of mushrooms.
In the kitchen reigns the South Tyrolean chef Daniel Zeilinga, 34 years old, whose cuisine is the equivalent of a book that tells the story of the territory by expressing a very specific gastronomic philosophy that speaks of contemporary Piedmont. A trained and refined cuisine with important experiences alongside chef Karl Baumgartner, at the Schoneck restaurant in Falzes, at the two Michelin star restaurant of the Louis C. Jacob hotel in Hamburg, Germany, at La Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso (Cuneo), 1 Michelin star, especially for two years alongside Enrico Crippa of Piazza Duomo in Alba, 3 Michelin stars, “A highly educational experience on both a human and professional level”, Crippa where he developed an important attention to the vegetable raw material, which leads to the creation of a green tasting menu and the construction of a vegetable garden and greenhouse for the winter period.
In combination with truffles, the chef suggests traditional, classic dishes such as dark egg, potato cream or guinea fowl and chestnut tortelli. “It can also be used on Fassona steak or cold dishes, but I suggest the hot ones, because with heat the penetrating scent of the truffle is released even better,” explains the chef. But the perfect marriage is with the Tajarins.
The recipe for Tajarin del Fàula with white truffle
Ingredients
625 g re-milled durum wheat semolina •
75 g 00 flour
• 550 g egg yolk (approximately 30 egg yolks)
White truffle to taste
Method
Weigh all the ingredients separately. Combine the two flours and mix them with the help of a whisk. Place in the mixer, add the egg yolks and mix until you obtain a smooth dough. Or manually, arrange the mixed flours in a fountain on the wooden pastry board, pour the egg yolks little by little into the center and start blending until you obtain a homogeneous mixture. Cover and let rest for a couple of hours in the fridge.
Roll out a strip of uniform width with a roller machine or a rolling pin to a thickness of 1-2 mm. Cut the strips of dough to the desired size or weight. Let it rest for a few minutes. Roll the strips on themselves and proceed by cutting finely - a filanger - and then, with the help of both hands, manipulate the dough to make the tajarin.
Form skeins and consume fresh or dry at room temperature and store in an airtight jar in a cool, dry place.
Cook in boiling salted water for about 3 minutes, then sauté in a pan with quality butter. Serve and sprinkle with white truffle flakes to taste!
