Il Submariners by Rolex it is certainly one of the most iconic timepieces ever. Introduced in 1954 and intended for purely professional use, the Submariner has accompanied countless explorers and divers. The Submariner's reputation as a durable and reliable timepiece has made it the timepiece of choice for many militaries, as well as marine exploration agencies. The longest and most fertile collaboration was that with the French Comex, acronym for Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises. Founded in 1961, Comex has long been a leader in deep sea exploration. A company of excellence, which in a few years has revolutionized the study of the abyss, which had to face the difficulties generated by the enormous depth pressures never explored before.
One of the most frequent problems was glass breakage in watches, caused by helium. During the ascent, helium was gradually expelled from the decompression chamber. The timepiece, on the other hand, was unable to expel it quickly, generating a very high pressure difference inside with the outside which ultimately caused the glass to break.
These episodes led Comex to turn to Rolex to solve the problem. The four-handed work between Rolex and Comex led to the creation of a one-way valve that would allow helium to escape during ascent, technology that Rolex patented in 1969 and the first model to incorporate it was the Sea-Dweller. In 1972, Rolex introduced a unique reference exclusively for the Comex that had never been sold on the market: this exceptional event has occurred only on two occasions in the history of the Maison. In fact, Rolex produced the reference 5514 exclusively for Comex and the reference 5517 for the British Ministry of Defence. In both cases, the watches in question featured customization on both the case back and the dial.
Made in very few specimens and with a very small number that have come down to us, given the use in an extreme work environment, the reference 5514 is today the most exclusive and desired diver's watch by collectors. Finding one in good condition is already a boon for a few, owning one complete with kit, letters and Comex memorabilia is a dream for which there is no price. Indeed, there is a price or at least an award, which took place in July at Artcurial Montecarlo. €318.500 (Estimate 60/80.000 €) for what many have defined as the most beautiful and complete 5514 ever to appear and which, with a pinch of patriotism, we can say has landed in Italy.
A timepiece for connoisseurs, because only a true lover of the genre can fully understand the importance of the history that this Rolex 5514 carries with it.
The personal story of the diver who wore it, the evolution of Rolex and the history of marine exploration are some of the many testimonies that the watch transmits to us, a charm that goes beyond the world of collecting and which makes it attractive to everyone enthusiasts of big business and exploration. The 5514 in question has seen no middlemen, as it comes directly from the original owner, who was a Comex employee from 1975 to 1981.
After his resignation, his timepiece was closed in a box and only saw the light again during the Artcurial auction. In short, like a relic that comes to us intact from a distant time, this Rolex 5514 has never had a service, as a guarantee of the complete originality and coevity of the components. The importance of the watch is underlined by a very complete kit, which acts as a pedigree and frames its history, through the Comex booklets of the time, the Comex card of the first owner, various original badges and documents that anyone would have the pleasure of leafing through, fully immersing themselves in the exploratory reality of the time. The dial bears, as in every 5514, the fascinating Comex writing which reaffirms how the reference was supplied exclusively to the French company.
Particular attention deserves the caseback completely different from the standard one, in fact it is marked Rolex Comex and centrally bears the assignment number of the diver who received it in use. Now the Rolex 5514 is heading towards a new life, certainly more peaceful and less
globetrotter than that lived on the wrist of its first owner but the passion with which it will be kept, we are sure, will be the same.
The research was carried out for Arte di FIRSTonline by Lorenzo Rabbiosi of The Watch Boutique
