The exhibition offers a journey through spectacular necklaces, multicolored earrings, eccentric brooches, and original bracelets, demonstrating how jewelry, born as an alternative to precious jewelry, has established itself as an authentic creative and cultural language. While jewelry emerged in Europe in the 1920s as a complement to haute couture—from Chanel's elegant lines to Schiaparelli's visionary creations—it was in the United States that this phenomenon reached its full maturity. Here, hundreds of manufacturers and designers experimented with innovative materials, shapes, and concepts, transforming the production of non-precious jewelry into a truly significant creative industry.
Jewels that conquered Hollywood divas
During the Great Depression (1929-1939), the costume jewelry It emerged as an ingenious response to economic hardship: accessible materials such as synthetic stones, metal alloys, celluloid, Bakelite, and Plexiglas were meticulously crafted and transformed into iconic jewelry. These pieces not only captivated the public, but also entered the collective imagination. worn by Hollywood divas, from Greta Garbo to Marlene Dietrich, from Vivien Leigh to many other movie stars, becoming symbols of style, creativity and innovation. With the return of traditional jewelry, the costume jewelry It does not lose its charm: it continues to be produced and appreciated as an expression of accessible and original style, confirming its historical and cultural importance.
Works by important designers
The exhibition offers a comprehensive overview of the works of the industry's most important designers, from historic names such as Trifari, Marcel Boucher, Coro, William De Lillo, De Rosa, Eisenberg, Miriam Haskell, Eugène Joseff, Kenneth J. Lane, and Pennino, to contemporary exponents such as Wendy Gell, Iradj Moini, and Billy Boy. Through a rich and varied exhibition, visitors can discover how fantasy jewelry, with its ability to innovate shapes, colors, and concepts, has shaped the history of fashion and creativity in the 20th and 21st centuries, becoming a universal language of elegance, playfulness, and experimentation.
Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo: I became fascinated with these non-precious jewels because they represent a cultural heritage that harks back to difficult times and major social changes. Their strength lies in their creativity, imagination, and the use of innovative materials capable of anticipating many future trends. They are 'poor but beautiful' jewels, accessible and affordable for everyone.
On the cover: William de Lillo Articulated blue and jade necklace, c. 1970 Hand worked blue cabochons and faux jade antique stones, 440×75 mm (ø 140 mm). Unique piece