Il Sorel, it is something intimate and archaic in Valchiavenna, Alpine region of Lombardy, north of Lake Como, nestled in the Alps towards Switzerland, is the breath of the mountain around which a thousand charms have developed stories and legends a current of cold air that springs from deep caves at constant temperature and humidity all year round.
In the distant past in this area away from the tourist routes already populated in prehistoric times by tribes of hunters who later became breeders who used to bring their cattle to the pastures of the upper Spluga valley, along paths that were in use until a few decades ago, someone had the ingenious intuition of capturing this breath to store cured meats and perishable foods.
Thus were born the Crotti, stone cellars that had the purpose of imprisoning the source of fresh air for cured meats but also for aging cheeses and also for the wines. What made crotti ideal for this purpose was the fact that, like a natural refrigerator, they maintained constant temperature and humidity all year round and the air source, when the invention of refrigerators could not yet be imagined, ensured ventilation in the cellar. Depending on the placement temperatures oscillated between 0 and 15 degrees with high humidity above 70%, which prevented the cured meats from drying out.
Crotti, stone cellars that had the purpose of imprisoning the source of fresh air for cured meats but also for cheeses
Al Crotto itself over time locals were added, the “rooms” work environments but above all social gatherings where to meet to taste the products, to celebrate together, to celebrate weddings, baptisms and engagements or to sign contracts. The custom spread widely in Val Chiavenna e today there are over 900 mostly private crotti jealously guarded by the owners.
One of the few accessible to the public, which has become a real institution, is the Crotto Quartino, in S. Croce di Piuro in the Province of Sondrio along the road that leads in the direction of Passo del Maloja and Saint Moritz which dates back to 1627 as attested by a sales document which reports that year.
They ensure constant temperature and humidity all year round, work environments but above all social gatherings, where weddings and engagements were celebrated
Today it is managed with the pride of being custodians of the history, traditions and customs of Valchiavenna brothers Fabio and Mauro Salini owners since 1993 who have made it a stubborn and passionate temple of the most authentic gastronomy of the Valley. "Sometimes - they confessed in an interview - it happens that some customers are surprised by the very limited choice of dishes we offer, but we always respond with a smile, saying that our specialization reaps illustrious victims..." "The victims, of course, are all those dishes and those preparations that have nothing to do with tradition and specializing helps us to always improve the traditional dishes offered”. So those who want to experience the most authentic >Valchiavenna at the table know they can find sciatt, spare ribs, sausages, polenta and white pizzoccheri”.
the Crotto Quartino, in S. Croce di Piuro which dates back to 1627, a passionate temple of the most authentic gastronomy in the Valley.
A fad or a way of existing? It is enough to read what Mauro Salini tells about himself to understand the profound meaning of the Crotto and how this institution has affected the life of the Valley: At the age of 22 I left my Valchiavenna to try to reach the Olympus of gastronomy. Over the years I have been lucky enough to achieve this goal by climbing the hierarchies in some of the best kitchens in the world of starred restaurants and luxury hotels. I was head chef at the Resort Cala di Volpe, Gallia, Kulm Hotel Saint Moritz, starred as Les Alpes as well as Executive Chef at the Belvedere of Mykonos. But something didn't convince me. Something was missing from this world of sophisticated flavors and micro portions… I realized that authentic cuisine, one that warms people's hearts, is not made up of refined dishes, complex and difficult to understand. It is the one that is born in homes, which brings people together around a table, with real, free-range tastes and generous portions. I looked back and saw the value of what I had left behind in Valchiavenna…Our land hides pearls that are handed down from generation to generation, but for some reason many restaurateurs, instead of consecrating this legacy, chase after the latest fashion, search for the next novelty, a bit like I did in those years. I had to change things. I decided to renounce any sophisticated approach and go back to my origins, using my expertise to bring to light the cuisine of the crotti, an extraordinary culture that has never crossed the borders of Valchiavenna before now”. A truly enthralling and passionate act of love worth a trip.
