He is one hundred years old Dal Cordaro, a cult place of Roman cuisine since 1922. A century-long history, where there are traditional dishes as a backdrop ancient walls, nobles and popes but above all the passion of Dori family who runs the restaurant for four generations. From Archangel who founds the 'Cantina Dori' to his brother Augusto, who changed the name of the place leaning against the Aurelian Walls, just below Porta Portese and next to the ancient Papal Arsenal, near the Harbour Ripa Grande, where in the 800th century the ropes for the ropes of the Pope's ships were kept, the ropes therefore, and Dal Cordaro arrives.
Up to the present day with the 'nephews', Luca, Alessandro and David who welcome guests in the dining room and in the dehor set in the walls, while in the kitchen Maurizio is at the stove with Annarella, the aunts Marina and Assunta who make the preparations, and the Uncle Augustarello directs the dining room service with Emanuele. In short, everything in the family, in this temple of cooking from appetizers to desserts reveals great authenticity and converts even the most demanding palates to the joys of Roman specialties. The centenary menu – which will be celebrated with a series of events and tastings each month this year – is a great roundup of typical dishes, always rigorously paired with organic wines from Lazio.
L'Ulivarella dried sausage and Fratelli Onori cheeses accompanied by the Doge's Seal bubbles pave the way for Cordaro's appetizers, where there is no shortage of Roman-style artichokes, tripe and beans with escarole. The tripe is rigorously cooked with tomato and the masterful touch of a final sprinkling of pecorino cheese. The beans are refined with the escarole while the Roman artichoke seduces with its freshness and sweetness. The bread that is always served hot is the typical and delicious crunchy Roman loaf. As a pairing, a speckled Malvasia di Giangirolami does its part. Chiara Civitarese, a young historian who investigates the origins of the ancient trattoria, recalling that Dal Cordaro is located outside the Gianicolense walls and the Trastevere district, writes that the name of the House of Casali Del Drago emerges from the archives, a noble family present in Rome from the first half of the 400th century, as holders of the premises and the adjacent land already owned by the Chapter of Santa Maria Maggiore.
Suggestions, archives to reopen, documents. A plaque to commemorate the important anniversary of the hundred years is unveiled in the outdoor area. Between one dish and another of course and so the first courses arrive. From 'amatriciana' to 'cacio e pepe', passing through 'gricia' and 'carbonara', the workhorses of Roman cuisine here are all made with handmade egg noodles. There is also the 'coda alla vaccinara' sauce if we really want to season the tagliolini with the taste of this superb second course which can then be worthily accompanied by the vegetables 'ripassata', i.e. boiled and then sautéed in a pan with garlic and chilli pepper. 'Prodigo', a Syrah also from Giangirolami and the 'Capolemole', a blend of Nero Buono, Montepulciano and Cesanese from the Carpineti Cantina marry Roman dishes with elegance and simplicity.
Dulcis in fundo obviously the dessert, with the ricotta and sour cherries cake, typical of the Romanesque Guidaico tradition, the tart with custard and strawberries and finally the custard in cup with homemade biscuits. A glass of Cannellino di Frascati di Merumalia wine, as they say in the Roman dialect is "his death". Congratulations!
Restaurant "Dal Cordaro"
Roman wine and cuisine since 1922
Piazzale Portuense 4 (Porta Portese)
Roma
tel. 06 5836751
www.dalcordaro.it
www.facebook.com/dalcordaro
www.instagram.com/dalcordaro/
