Le Figaro, the authoritative French newspaper, founded in 1826 under Charles X, which took its name from the famous character of the Beaumarchais trilogy, considered the longest-lived newspaper among those still in publication and also the most widespread with 320 copies sold, celebrates with a wide range of Neapolitan gastronomy.
The newspaper offers eight addresses to note, an anthology of restaurants, pizzerias, pastry shops, sandwich shops, for tourists who go to Naples, sanctuaries of taste not to be missed to enter the heart and history of Neapolitan cuisine and gastronomy.
“Naples – writes Olivier Reneau, author of the survey – is undoubtedly the only city in the world to have been the subject of a cookbook: in about 500 pages, La Cucina Napoletana tells everything about the local gastronomy. Its marine influences – the famous spaghetti alle vongole come from here – and terrestrial with emblematic foods such as flour and wheat semolina to make pasta – pasta and pizza – San Marzano tomato and mozzarella produced in the region, near the outskirts of the city. For a Neapolitan, pizza is inevitably born here. A delicacy that every visitor to the city must absolutely taste.
Olivier Reneau's first safe address is:
Pizzeria Concettina at the Three Saints
If I had to eat just one pizza during a stopover in Naples, writes the journalist, this pizzeria would undoubtedly be on the short list. It may be necessary to wait a bit, not so much for the cooking time – just over a minute – as for the fame acquired by Ciro Oliva. The young restaurateur has made this family business in the Sanità district a symbol of the renewal of Neapolitan pizza, with quality products worthy of haute cuisine and above all a tasty and digestible dough.
Following:
Gino Sorbillo Mother Yeast by the Sea in Via Partenope
“Facing the Gulf of Naples, Gino Sorbillo Lievito Madre al Mare. This is not necessarily the place where you expect to find one of the best pizzerias in Naples. They are usually confined to the narrow, shady alleys of the historic city centre. But the Sorbillo family, one of the oldest and most famous pizza chefs in the city, has chosen to open one of their "branches" facing the bay. On the terrace, on the waterfront, you can feast in the sun with a real Margherita (tomato, mozzarella and basil), a Napoli (tomato, mozzarella, anchovies and capers), or even a pizza Fritta Napoletana (a fried calzone), a specialty of Sorbillo”.
Scaturchio in Piazza San Domenico Maggiore
Scarturchio is a must for snacking à la napolitaine. As soon as you have tasted the treasures of this café-pastry shop, the puff pastry in particular, the coffee break will quickly become a habit. Standing at the counter, coffee in one hand, napkin-wrapped sweets in the other, discussing everything and anything with the next-of-the-moment neighbor. It lasts 3 minutes, but what a pleasure… Unless you want to take your time and enjoy a sandwich at one of the tables on the terrace in the magnificent Piazza San Domenico Maggiore.
To the Bohemian Puppy of Vico Boerio
Do you want authentic charm, both for the decor and for the dish, Renau asks the readers of Le Figaro? He ready the answer without fail: “Do not hesitate to run in the alleys of the Spanish quarter. The area is now filled with addresses often tailored to tourists unfamiliar with the Neapolitan culinary subtleties. But at Al Cucciolo Bohemien the culinary tradition has been a family affair since 1963 that remains untouched.
Uncle and nephews are responsible for running this market kitchen table where the dishes are simple and sincere: caprese (the local name for tomato-mozzarella), paccheri alla pescatora, fish of the day all'acqua pazza (with oil, tomatoes, garlic, white wine and cooked in a pan).
Mimì at the Railway in via Alfonso D'Aragona
Even if you have to know how to find it, this address is a legend in Naples; just look at the photos of the characters that cover all the walls of this restaurant opened in 1943 by Emilio Giugliano, alias Mimì. At the time, the factory was close to the Naples train station, hence the name.
The station has been moved but the nickname of "the railway" has remained and the address has become one of the highest places in Neapolitan restaurants where people come to taste popular cuisine – octopus salad, potato pasta, cod with white beans… – in a somewhat bourgeois context with toppings and guys in white jackets.
European Mattozzi in via Marchese Campodisola
“A stone's throw from the ferry terminal and the university, the environment immediately exudes a certain seriousness and you immediately notice that half of the clientele is made up of regulars, admirers of the tidy environment of the place. However, courtesy and good advice on current recipes are the same for guests passing through this elegant restaurant with walls richly decorated with paintings. People come here to taste the classics of the local gastronomy: a nice buffalo mozzarella, a pasta with mussels and beans, a mixed frito…”
Upnea delicatessen in via San Giovanni Maggiore Pignatelli
“In the heart of the historic center, this address has the whole Neapolitan tavern, with its garage-style iron doors, which contrast with the religious niche perched on the facade. Here, whether it's preparing a sandwich, a hamburger or a ready-to-eat meal, the approach focuses above all on the quality of the products, all coming from small producers in the Neapolitan area. An address to frequent both for a quick meal, an aperitif or a dinner for more in a very artistic atmosphere that characterizes the place.
It therefore closes with one last precious indication:
Ancient Dairy of Vico II Alabardieri
“In the “worldly” and chic part of the Chiaia district – a stone's throw from E. Marinella or Tramontano in particular – elegant people like to play on contrast by hurrying to have lunch at the Antica Latteria. A way to remember that here a meal is a moment of sharing not to be taken lightly. The address therefore plays the card of traditional Neapolitan dishes – vegetable omelette, chickpea and chestnut soup, meatballs with ragu – to be enjoyed in a no-frills dining room”.
