It is easily found in the fields, especially in summer, especially in vegetable gardens where it is feared as a bothersome weed, in fact the species, with a creeping habit, reproduces by seed and the plants can produce up to 10.000 seeds whose vitality can last up to 20 years. It is thought to be of Asian origin, certainly, in ancient Egyptian medicine it was used as a medicinal herb.
In Italy it is widespread everywhere and takes on various names: purselana (Liguria), erba grassa (Lombardy), purzlana (Emilia), sportellecchia (Tuscany), precacchia (Abruzzo), perchiacca (Basilicata), chiaccunella or pucchiacchia with a licentious reference to the female genital organ (Campania), andraca (Calabria), purciaca (Sicily), barzellana (Sardinia).
Its scientific name is portulaca, but perhaps because of its ability to spread like a carpet on the ground, it absorbs extraordinary medicinal properties from the soil that the Egyptians of their time and the medicinal practitioners of the Middle Ages had intuited, even attributing to the plant an apotropaic value, the power to keep evil spirits away.
Its culinary use was already praised at the court of Louis XIV. In Neapolitan cuisine, it was once collected together with rocket from plants that grew spontaneously, and sold by itinerant greengrocers. Rocket and pucchiacchella were an almost inseparable pair among the ingredients of the salad. In Tuscan cuisine, it is used to make a typical poor summer dish, panzanella. In Sicilian cuisine, 'a purciddana is used to prepare salads, such as the Ferragostana salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, onions dipped in oil, vinegar and salt; or in the salad with boiled vegetables, where the leaves and young shoots are used with boiled potatoes and baked onions. Another use is to prepare small Purciddana fritters, in which the tops of the plant - dipped in a batter of water and flour - are fried individually in very hot oil and then served as appetizers or appetizers. In Apulian cuisine, particularly in the peasant tradition of Bisceglie, it is used as a salad together with typical cherry tomatoes, dressed with oil and vinegar, sometimes to accompany wet stale bread called cialda or cialdella (cialdidde). In Roman cuisine it belongs to that mix of various vegetables, domestic and wild, which are eaten raw in salad under the name of misticanza or insalata di misto. A historical curiosity: In ancient times, this misticanza was brought home by the friars who stopped by to ask for alms from the families.
It was said about its nutritional properties, well the humble Portulaca is a real Pandora's box of benefits for our body. Purslane consumption is in fact ascribed purifying, thirst-quenching, diuretic and anti-diabetic properties. It is recommended to treat diarrhea, vomiting, acute enteritis, hemorrhoids and postpartum hemorrhages. It is also a plant source of polyunsaturated fatty acids of the omega-3 type (which play a role in the prevention of cardiovascular diseases) of which it contains modest quantities, and of α-linolenic acid; it has a high content of raw protein and water-soluble polysaccharides, a good tolerance to salinity and a fair capacity to accumulate heavy metals.
Poor vegetables, yes, but also brought to great levels of cuisine as happens in the Gardenia restaurant in Caluso by Michelin-starred chef Mariangela Susigan. Mariangela Susigan's cuisine is spontaneous, delicious and authentic, which follows the seasonality of the products while respecting the territory and its producers, focused on the emotion and surprise of the present which is based on what the garden produces, the wild territory, the culture of wild herbs translated into a refined technical and creative evolution. Reason why the very talented Mariangela has been awarded not only the prestigious Michelin star but also the Michelin Green Star which awards with the following motivation: Gastronomy and sustainability: "For over 20 years, Mariangela Susigan has collected wild herbs and edible flowers which constitute the core of her cuisine and whose profound knowledge owes, among other things, to the herb experts of Valchiusella. A visit to the private garden behind the restaurant is not to be missed, a vast and very pleasant green oasis in the village."
The chef's philosophy in the kitchen also translates into sustainability of the local agricultural economy, not only with the use of zero-mile products, but also with integrated communication activities of the territory through paths and experiences that involve local producers, growers, and agricultural markets.
A rigorous ethical supply chain, respectful of the territory, traditions and the hard work of small producers who allow us to bring to the table not only local excellence but also a piece of their history, cultural biodiversity, agri-food biodiversity and places.
The recipe for nettle cream, anchovy pesto and porcelain
From the book The cuisine of spontaneous herbs Giunti Editore
Ingredients for four people
For the nettle cream:
four croutons of homemade bread
200 grams of tender nettle tips
green celery 50 grams
yellow potatoes 100 grams
100 grams spring onions
garlic one clove
extra virgin olive oil 80 milligrams
marjoram a sprig
one liter of vegetable broth
salt up to two pinches
black pepper to taste
For the pesto:
porcelain leaves 100 grams
six desalted anchovy fillets
marjoram a sprig
fresh pecorino cheese 15 grams
salt up a pinch
black pepper a pinch
extra virgin olive oil 20 milligrams
Method
for cream
clean and wash the nettle tips well and cut them crosswise. Peel and wash the potatoes, cut them into cubes. Clean and wash the spring onion and garlic and chop them. Brown them in a pan with oil until they are colored. Then add the potato cubes and the nettle tips, let them flavor in the soffritto for a few minutes. Also add the marjoram leaves and pour in the hot broth, leaving it to cook until the potatoes are tender. Add salt and pepper and remove the soup from the heat
For the porcelain pesto:
clean and wash the porcelain leaves well. Chop the desalted anchovies with a knife and grate the fresh pecorino. Then combine all the ingredients and blend in a glass blender. If necessary, add a spoonful of extra virgin olive oil.
Presentation:
serve the soup very hot accompanied by toasted and warm homemade bread slices garnished with a spoonful of porcelain pesto and anchovies. Decorate with porcelain leaves
