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The Dolcissima di Breme: the red onion with a thousand-year history

An ancient variety of onion that was born in the heart of Lomellina, in Lombardy, still cultivated today according to the techniques handed down by the monks. With an intense red color it differs from other onions for its sweetness and high digestibility. With over 10 centuries of history behind it, it has become a Slow Food Presidium. It is perfect for all culinary experiments: from savory dishes to desserts.

The Dolcissima di Breme: the red onion with a thousand-year history

Onion cakes, ice creams and jams. These are unusual but successful combinations, thanks to the great ones versatility of the Breme Red Onion. A small treasure cultivated in 2 hectares of land in the province of Pavia, in Lomellina, with a 10-century-old history: in 906 AD, when the Novalesa monks arrived in Breme to escape the barbarian Saracen raids, they were so fascinated by it that they elected it seat of the Congregation, considering it "the best of all the cities built in the Lomellina countryside".

Initially two types of this onion were grown: the golden and the red. To date, the latter is the most cultivated, thanks to its sweetness, crunchiness and high digestibility which make it perfect for many recipes: both raw in salads and cooked as soup or in omelettes.

It is precisely thanks to its unique flavor that the Breme Red Onion is increasingly in demand by haute cuisine for culinary experiments and daring but highly appreciated combinations, such as: jams, mustard, ice cream, cakes and pizza.

Like all onions, Breme onions also boast important nutritional properties. Rich in fiber, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, folic acid and vitamins (especially C), are excellent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory. They are also anticancer and anti-diabetic, thanks to the presence of sulfur substances and glucokinine, a vegetable hormone. In addition, they are very good for bones and improve sleep and mood by preventing excessive homocysteine ​​formation in the body.

With a persistent but mild flavor, the Onion of Breme is characterized by being a unique product, so much so that it conquered the appellation "The Sweetest". Her skin is a beautiful deep red with a weight that is around 600-700 grams, but it can also reach over a kilo. To tell the truth, the record belongs to a flat-shaped Breme onion variety, also known as "quarantine", which can reach up to 2.041 grams. While the "local", more bulbous and oval in shape, is characterized by a swelling near the tuft.

To give it its flavor are mainly three factors: the microclimate, humidity and soil of the area, not far from the confluence of the Po and Sesia rivers, whose fertility instead derives from the aquifers that run about 1 and a half meters from the surface, so much so that it does not need to be irrigated.

More cultivated according to the techniques handed down by the monks, rigorously by hand, following a strict disciplinary that prohibits any type of pesticide and requires only the use of organic products. We start from the seeds that are soaked with the waning moon in jute bags, once germinated they are recovered and sown in the nursery. After a short period, between the end of October and the beginning of November, the seedlings are transplanted into the field and harvested from June to August, when the stem begins to dry out and bend over on itself.

But it doesn't end there. After harvesting, the red onions are left in the sun for a few hours and then stored in a shady place for another 3/4 days to complete the maturation and drying process.

A small treasure that since 2006 the Municipal Administration has been able to exploit, preserving its biodiversity. Furthermore, thanks to the contribution of Slow Food, it has managed to conquer the De.Co (Municipal Designation of Origin) in 2008. Francesco Berzero, mayor of the town and representative of the Presidium producers, told how 15 years ago the producers of red onions could be counted on the fingers of one hand, but today the number has grown, but efforts are being made to protect small farmers in the area to ensure that this unique product remains a pride of Lombard food and wine.

Currently there are 16 producers of this product and they produce about 400 quintals a year, half of which is used precisely on the occasion of the festival to support the football team.

The red bream onion, a Slow Food Presidium
The red bream onion, a Slow Food Presidium

Although until 70 years ago the local consortium, founded in 1943, could count on over 200 members, whose goal was to defend the bargaining power of small farmers. However, at the end of the 60s, with urbanization there was a real exodus from the countryside to the cities, leading to a strong crisis in the agricultural sector. Furthermore, due to low remuneration and lack of manpower, the area switched to rice cultivation, which is less demanding and far more profitable than onions.

Until really thanks to members of the Polisportiva Bremese, the "Onion Festival" is born, one of the most loved events in Lombardy which has been held every year since 1982, on the second weekend of June, with the exception of this year due to the epidemiological emergency.

In 2014, thanks also to the University of Pavia and the Lombardy Region, the Breme red onion was registered in the national register of horticultural varieties for conservation (the first horticultural variety in Lombardy).
Slow Food has therefore included this onion on the Ark of Taste and in 2020 launched a Presidium to make the most of the work of the producers' association and preserve this variety. The Presidium's production regulations pay great attention to soil fertility, providing for light plowing, biennial rotations and forbidding the use of herbicides.

A dish that cannot be missed is the onion soup, then there are also spaghetti, omelettes, salads, pizza and pies. The menu also includes all the traditional dishes, such as polenta and grilled meat and chips, to be paired with local wines or craft beers.

But it's not just about food. During the event there is musical entertainment, performances by dance schools, an amusement park and a craft market. Furthermore, you can visit the charming historic village by renting bicycles and taking advantage of guided tours.

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