This is where the magic happens. We are in Gorga, a small fraction of the Municipality of Stio, in Cilento, where Slow Food has launched a new Presidium since 2018, that of the Queen of Gorga bean: one of the symbols of the biodiversity of this area.
It is a variety of white runner bean, which takes its name from the Queen of Naples Maria Carolina of Habsburg, Archduchess of Austria and wife of King Ferdinand IV. According to legend, the Queen was particularly fond of it, even though she had very refined tastes and it was very difficult to prepare something for her that she really liked. But the sweetness and high digestibility of this fantastic legume managed to win her over, even taking her name.
The Slow Food Presidium was created not only to safeguard a unique product, but also to support and encourage environmental, as well as social and economic change. Andrew DeLeo, representative of the Presidium producers, told the story of how the idea of dedicating oneself again to this particular legume was reborn, which until 7 years ago was only cultivated by a few local ladies.
Just 7 years ago, in August 2013, the La Perzana farm was born. After years of studies and travels around the world, Andrea and Sarah have decided to return to their land and invest in its products. Attracted by the naturalistic-environmental and landscape value of the area, these young people decided to return to their origins, in the small village of Stio, where Andrea's grandmother owned about 3 hectares of land, in the locality of Perzana.
Initially, however, the activity was concentrated on beekeeping that thanks to the competition from the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development (EAFRD), Andrea was able to create a beekeeping laboratory. In addition to the production of various types of honey (acacia, citrus, forest, chestnut, strawberry tree, heather, millefiori and sulla), the company also produces a lip balm, an artisanal soap and a nourishing ointments, all based on beeswax and honey.
Two years later, the company decided to also devote itself to agriculture, realizing a laboratory for the honey extraction and packaging of legumes, in particular that of the Queen of Gorga bean and the chickpea of the typical variety of Cicerale. Once their business expanded, they began to invest in the Regina bean, also participating in some markets, such as Leguminosa, the Slow Food Campania event in Naples, which made it possible to relaunch the economy and tourism in this small town.
Gorga, a small fraction of just 800 inhabitants in the municipality of Stio, is a small village surrounded by hills near the sources of the Alento river. The historic center, already fortified in the Norman era, is characterized by narrow alleys and small squares, with a very rural atmosphere. The most important monument is the church dedicated to San Gennaro, the protector of the town, which bears witness to the origin of the village around the year one thousand.
The small village bases its economy on agriculture and sheep farming. Of great importance is the production of chestnuts and honey, together with the harvest of vegetables, potatoes and obviously the delicious Regina di Gorga beans.
Pearly white color and ovoid shape, the Gorga bean is characterized by a compact pulp, a thin skin and a thick and creamy consistency that can withstand cooking. Its sweetness is due to a slow transformation of sugar into starch.
It is advisable to immerse the beans in warm water and soak them for a few hours. Then boil them in a little water, about two fingers above the level of the seeds, adding a little at a time when it shrinks too much. They are perfect to be used in many traditional dishes, from pasta and beans to beans with chestnuts or mussels, up to a good soup.
Even today, the cultivation of this bean takes place according to tradition. On the banks of the Alento river, with water, sun and clayey soil which give all the unique characteristics to this legume. The sowing of the queen bean is done manually, between May and June together with corn, whose plant was used as a support for the legume. Today, nylon nets or wooden poles are also used, made from heather as it grows on the hills in the area.
The peculiarity of this plant is precisely its climbing habit, which can exceed 3 meters in height and adapts well to different types of soil even if it prefers fresh, well-drained and not too compact ones.
Sowing is performed simultaneously with that of corn, which acts as a guardian or as an insect-attracting plant, but at the same time provides the corn with nutrition thanks to its nitrogen-fixing properties. In some cases, the maize is sown a little earlier than the legume, alternating mixed masi/bean rows with one or more rows of maize only, so as to allow light to penetrate inside the crop.
The harvest takes place in autumn and is divided into 2 phases: the first, in which the still soft pods are selected, for raw consumption (to enrich our salads), but only when they are ripe do they develop color and texture. At this point they are spread out in the sun so that drying is complete.
Subsequently, the pods are beaten with wooden sticks to free them from impurities and selected with a "circle" (tool capable of eliminating all impurities) which allows you to select them and preserve the best grain. Conservation is also important, which takes place in canvas bags, in cool and ventilated places or in glass demijohns.
All these characteristics make the Regina bean one of the recognized Salerno excellences and for this reason it must be protected. Not only to enhance the agricultural heritage but above all the cultural heritage of this small village.
Every year in August a fair is held, the Festival of poor dishes of Cilento which allows you to taste typical local preparations (honey, sweets) based on chestnuts and the Queen's bean is cooked in all ways.
During the festival you can taste typical Cilento dishes, prepared with simple products of the earth, among which there are leaves and patane cu' lu vicci (beet leaves, boiled potatoes, garlic, oil and chilli pepper), but above all the so-called Ciccimmaretati , a first course based on chickpeas, beans, lentils, wheat, maize, salt, oil and chilli pepper. The latter is undoubtedly the most famous dish of the festival, so much so that it is often referred to as the Ciccimmaretati Festival.
