Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895), founder of a house that embodies the pinnacle of Parisian luxury, is a key figure in the history of fashion. Born in England, the man easily described as the inventor of haute couture founded the fashion house “Worth & Bobergh” in 1858 at 7 rue de la Paix in Paris. This house, which would later bear the unique name of “Worth,” became the symbol of French sophistication and know-how and has spanned four generations and nearly a century. Presented over 1.100 m2 in the vast galleries of the Petit Palais, this one-of-a-kind retrospective brings together more than 400 pieces including clothing, accessories, objets d’art, paintings and graphic arts and aims to highlight both the creations and the key figures of the house of Worth.
In addition to the Palais Galliera collection, the exhibition features rare and prestigious loans from international museums such as the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Victoria and Albert Museum, Palazzo Pitti, as well as numerous private collections. The first part of the exhibition traces the origins of the house, its children and its clients, from 1858 until the end of the First World War. Arriving in Paris in 1846, Charles Frederick Worth began working as a clerk for Gagelin, a renowned merchant, before quickly making a name for himself. In 1858 he founded the firm “Worth & Bobergh” with his father, Otto Gustav Bobergh, at number 7 rue de la Paix.
His great admirers from the upper middle class
The house dressed Princess Metternich, the Imperial Court and even Empress Eugenie herself, establishing its dominance over Parisian fashion. In 1870, after the separation from Bobergh, the brand became “Worth.” From day dresses to opera coats, tea dresses to ball gowns, the exhibition illustrates Worth’s inimitable style through a collection of silhouettes worn during the day. The exhibition also highlights prestigious clients, such as the Italian Franca Florio, the American Lady Curzon and the iconic Countess Greffulhe, model of the Duchess of Guermantes in Marcel Proust's work. Portraits painted by Carolus-Duran, La Gandara and Louise Breslau punctuate the exhibition and demonstrate the desire of these wealthy women to see themselves represented in their most beautiful Worth dresses. In 1895, the death of Charles Frederick marked a turning point in the history of the house, which then passed to his sons, Jean-Philippe and Gaston.
The legendary life through documents and photographs
The exhibition brings to life the legendary Rue de la Paix with its fashion houses such as Paquin, Doucet and Dœuillet. The designer Poiret, who opened his atelier in 1903, learned his trade in Worth. Documents and photographs illustrate the workings of this house, where thousands of people worked every day: from the sewing workshop to the tailoring workshop, via the photographer's studio and the luxurious salons that welcomed an international clientele. The final section focuses on the new golden age of the house at the beginning of the XNUMXth century. Under the direction of Jean-Philippe and Gaston Worth, the house continued to expand. During this period, fashion returned to the style of the First Empire, but responded to society's new aspirations with more refined silhouettes, both straight and tapered. The house asserted itself through its creations, supported by the specialized press, in particular La Gazette du Bon Ton.
The period of modernity
From the 20s onwards, Gaston's sons Jean-Charles and Jacques took over. Worth thus fully entered modernity. The house offers numerous coats, capes, day and evening dresses in each collection. “Worth blue” is a must. In 1924, its first perfume, Dans la Nuit, was launched, followed by many others whose bottles were designed by Lalique including Vers le Jour, Sans Adieu and Je reviens. The exhibition brings the latter back to life thanks to an exceptional olfactory device proposed in collaboration with the Osmothèque, the International Conservatory of Perfume.
The great Couturier through some videos
This retrospective is enriched by four videos made by journalist Loïc Prigent, which reveal the secrets of the making of four iconic pieces and the behind-the-scenes of their modeling. Film excerpts complete the presentation, while listening stations immerse visitors in the excitement and daily life of these fashion houses. Finally, a children's trail, dedicated to children aged 7 to 10, offers them the opportunity to experience the adventure of fashion by helping the famous couturier invent haute couture. The exhibition is a total immersion in the history of a legendary institution that has affirmed French luxury and elegance. A page in the history of fashion is being written, that of the fashion system as we know it today., with its fashion shows and its marketing strategies, that of the invention of the figure of the great couturier to which stylists still today claim to belong.
On the cover, detail of the portrait of Franca Florio by Giovanni Boldini
