Art Dèco has always been a style loved mainly by the American public, but now it is also finding interest in Europe and Italy especially if the jewels are from important Maisons or signed by well-known designers and the prices are still affordable to start your own collection.
Art Deco challenged traditional Victorian and Edwardian stereotypes in favor of something that refused to look back, only forward, including fashion, furniture, architecture, home accessories, automobiles, theaters and, perhaps most notably, jewellery. Underlying the 20s design style in all these disciplines was a keen sense of modernity; the world was changing rapidly and supporters of Art Deco wanted to celebrate all that was new, futuristic and global. Being described as "Art Deco" in the late 20s and 30s must have been considered luxurious, charming and optimistic about a future filled with innovations in transportation, machination and human engineering enterprises.
Art Deco jewelry responded quickly to the changing fashions of the time, allowing women to decorate their bare arms and add drama to long, low-waisted A-line dresses. In the late 20s, bracelet designs centered around thin geometric links set with diamonds and colored gemstones in a repeating pattern. Later, however, gold, silver and platinum cuff designs emerged that told stories of ancient cultures through symbols, carved gemstones and enamels. As the amount of jewelry increased in the 30s, so did the amount worn. Layers of bracelets on the wrist and wrapped around the upper arm reflected the era's desire for fun, as did the resurgence of charm bracelets with elements that jingled when the wearer moved. Each surviving creation is a piece of art, design and social history, all wrapped up in diamonds, precious stones and precious metals.
Cover image: Fine Jewelry Sotheby's auction lot (online bidding ends 17 September 2021) Lady's gem set and diamond cocktail watch, 1920s. estimate 10,000 – 15,000 GBP
