Nestled in the Alps, between the Western and Eastern Alps almost close to the Swiss border, the Val Chiavenna famous for its artistic-cultural beauties, for its slow living, a legacy of the times in which it lived much of the year in isolation frequented by local shepherds who took their flocks up in the summer, it is full of hidden corners and views that fascinate the visitor every time with the Acquafraggia waterfalls, even mentioned and appreciated by Leonardo da Vinci during his trip to Valtellina and the famous town of Piuro for its archaeological excavations, so much so that it is considered "the Pompeii of the Alps” having also been the protagonist of a natural tragedy in the past, namely the landslide of 1618 which destroyed the village.
Füghiascia de Gurduna: heritage of Val Chiavenna together with the Violino di Capra and the pizzoccheri
But Valchiavenna, in addition to preserving many historical and environmental beauties, also boasts a rich gastronomic tradition, characterized by the presence of the renowned Crotti with their "sorel", a natural opening from which a current of air blows which keeps the temperature almost constant and which makes the conservation of wine, cured meats and cheeses ideal (see Mondo Food article of 22 June 2023). But then its renowned Pizzoccheri, the polenta taragna, and the refined e rare goat violin, ham made only with the leg and shoulder of Orobic goats (see Mondo Food 4 November 2018).
Another important testimony of its gastronomic tradition is the Füghiascia de Gurduna or the Focaccia di Gordona. As with other traditional recipes we can speak of "poor kitchen”. It was originally composed of flour, water, salt and cold polenta left over from the preparation of some recipe, a typical example of "recycled cuisine", in which our ancestors were masters).
La mestüra, mixed flour made with bièva flour (biada) and furmentunign (Quarantino corn)
In the early 900s it began to be used the mestüra, a mixed flour made with bièva flour (biada) and furmentunign (Quarantino corn). And with the advent of better well-being it was replaced by the more valuable white flour. The characteristic of cereals was that of having faster maturation times, which is why they could be planted in succession: first the fodder and then, after the harvest, the furmentunign in the same land.
The focaccia can be tarèda or levèda
With the improved living conditions of the valley's inhabitants, the original recipe was then enriched with the addition of eggs, milk, yeast and the introduction of "shortcuts" such as the use of pult instead of polenta. What makes this original focaccia unique is its cooking: the dough is cooked on the piòta, a vertical plate placed in front of a wood-fired fire and brushed with hot butter. The dough is also pricked in several places with a fork so the heat can penetrate evenly into the dough and create a pleasant golden outer crust. It is traditionally eaten with cured meats and cheeses, but there are also those who prefer it in a sweet version with a little jam.
La focaccia can be tarèda, i.e. thinner, in the yeast-free version, or levèda (leavened) in the taller and softer version with the addition of yeast (initially brewer's yeast which was purchased from the prestinee, i.e. in the bakery, in recent times often replaced by freeze-dried yeast in sachets).
Faced with almost common basic ingredients, each family has personalized the recipe with small variations.
Proud of the originality of its gastronomy, the town of Gordona established in the month of May the Füghiascia Festival. In the area used for the party, the focaccia is kneaded and cooked in full view on several fireplaces prepared on site for cooking and served to visitors piping hot accompanied with cold cuts (bacon), cheeses and boiled potatoes. But some also serve it spread with jam or Nutella.
The official recipe for Gordona's Füghiascia
Ingredients
- 1 kg white flour
- 4 ladles of cold grated pult or polenta
- ½ sachet of freeze-dried yeast
- 1 glass of warm water
- 1 glasses of milk
- 1 tablespoon of salt
- Butter
Preparation
Add yeast, salt, polenta and then the liquids little by little to the flour arranged in a well.
Work the dough well until you obtain a consistency similar to that of pizza dough. Leave the dough to rest for the time necessary to heat the schiaia (piatta). When the schiaia has reached the right temperature, quickly roll out the dough, pierce it in several places with a fork to avoid the formation of bubbles during cooking, spread evenly with fresh butter.
Cook vertically in front of the fire, turning the schiaia several times on its sides, until evenly cooked. The fire must have a nice flame, fueled with thin wood.
Once cooked, spread again with butter and remove from the schiaia (beating it with a paluta: dialectal term to indicate a wooden utensil in the shape of a large knife).
