In May, a traditional dish cannot be missing from Apulian tables: white broad beans and chicory. The meeting of two flavors so different but which blend perfectly together, characterized by the sweetness of the broad beans and the bitterness of the chicory. A dish able to satisfy the palate but also our body, thanks to the balance between proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, fibers and fats of vegetable origin. One of the combinations most loved by tourists from all over the world, recognized by the region as a Traditional Agri-Food Product (PAT).
Broad beans have a long and fluctuating history, made up of legends and superstitions. Already known in the Bronze Age, broad beans were considered a unclean food, which housed the souls of the dead, a belief also supported by Pythagoras. The Romans, on the other hand, consumed them during the festivals dedicated to the Goddess Flora, protector of nature as a symbol of good luck and prosperity. In more recent times, broad beans have provided the essential proteins for farmers in the absence of meat. For this they were also called "meat of the poor”, their price soared. Then, with the improvement of living conditions, production began to decrease at the end of the 900s.
However, they remain highly appreciated above all because they are a symbol of the summer. There are many recipes that see this legume as the protagonist such as 'fave e pecorino' in Lazio, 'fave e salame' in Piedmont and, above all, 'fave e cicorie' in Puglia, a poor and timeless recipe, made of simple but rich in taste.
But why has it become a symbolic dish of this land? In the past, legumes were used to nitrogenize the fields, an alternative to the production of wheat which until the 900s was considered a precious commodity. So the farmers were left with only this legume, considered worthless but rich in nutritional properties.
A peasant tradition that tells Puglia, its strong bond with this land which, despite the passing of the years, remains an indispensable dish on Apulian tables but also appreciated on gourmet tables throughout Italy. In some parts of Puglia this pairing is called 'ncapriata, which derives from the Latin caporidia and the Greek kapyridia, or a kind of polenta made with crushed wheat. The proof that this dish was already known in ancient Greece.
Broad beans: nutritional properties and contraindications
Broad beans are very nutritious, low in fat but rich in proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins (A, B6, C and K) e mineral salts (iron, selenium, copper, magnesium, potassium, calcium, manganese and zinc). The presence of magnesium helps lower blood pressure, as well as reducing the risk of heart attacks and strokes. Manganese instead prevents arthritis and osteoporosis, as it increases bone mass and reduces calcium deficiency. Indicated for those who follow a low-calorie diet, broad beans give a sense of satiety.
Furthermore, they are rich in phenolic compounds with antioxidant properties, very suitable for fight infections and anemia. They have properties purifying and diuretic, ideal for regularizing bowel movement and supporting kidney function. Thanks to L-dopa, an intermediate amino acid that helps keep the body healthy, broad beans have a strong beneficial effect on the brain, especially useful in prevention of Parkinson's disease. It is important to remember that during cooking, as with all legumes, there is the risk of losing a good part of the nutritional properties and for this reason it is recommended to eat them raw.
Not everything that glitters is gold. If for some beans are a source of healthy virtues, for others their consumption can be very risky. Known as favism, it is a genetic anomaly caused by the lack of an enzyme, glucose-6-phosphate-dehydrogenase (G6PD), present in red blood cells and essential for their survival. This enzymatic deficiency leads to acute haemolysis, i.e. the death of red blood cells, which is triggered following the intake or inhalation of vapors of broad beans, peas and other particular vegetables, substances such as mothballs and trinitrotoluene or some drugs. The pathology begins to manifest itself after 12-48 hours following the ingestion of fresh beans. When the situation is serious it can happen that a large part of the red blood cells is destroyed.
Wild chicory: beneficial properties
Wild chicory grows along roadsides and paths, its beneficial virtues have been known since ancient times. The treatise "Natural History" by Pliny the Elder highlights the properties of "cicorielle", above all anti-neuralgic, stomachic, cholagogue and diuretic.
Composed mostly of water (about 93,5 out of 100), the leaves are rich in mineral salts (potassium, calcium, phosphorus, sodium, magnesium, zinc, copper, iron, selenium and manganese,), Vitamins (B,C,P,K,) amino acids and inulin. Stimulates liver and kidney activity, has antibacterial, purifying, laxative and diuretic properties. Chicory has numerous beneficial properties for our body: it reduces inflammation, stimulates concentration, regulates the amount of glucose and cholesterol in the blood and, finally, it is ideal for fighting acne. A bitter tonic can also be obtained from the roots and leaves. During the poor post-war years, chicory roots were dried, roasted and ground and used as a coffee substitute.
Broad beans and chicory recipe
Ingredients:
- Decorticated white broad beans 400 g
- Bay leaves 3
- Wild (or cultivated) chicory 400 g
- Fine salt, water and extra virgin olive oil to taste
Preparation:
Soak the broad beans in a container with cold water for about 12 hours. Once the necessary time has elapsed, drain them and cook them by covering them with water, adding the bay leaves. The cooking, rigorously over low heat, must respect the traditional times, i.e. a couple of hours. The traditional pot in which the beans are cooked is the terracotta pot, which guarantees slow and uniform cooking of the ingredients. Alternatively, a thick-bottomed metal pan can be used. To obtain an even creamier puree you can add a white potato. In the meantime, rinse the chicory thoroughly by removing the toughest parts of the plant. Then put the more tender chicory to boil on the fire, stirring with a wooden spoon. As soon as they are ready, drain and set them aside. When the broad beans are cooked, continue to mix until you get a thick cream. Add a little salt and then arrange the puree next to the chicory, all seasoned with extra virgin olive oil. Serve on the table and accompany everything with homemade bread and good wine. The broad beans must not be mixed with the chicory but they must be eaten alternating with each other so as not to cover the flavours.
