The Neapolitan gastronomic tradition offers dishes and recipes with unique ingredients. An example is the cannellino bean Dente di Morto di Acerra, a Slow Food presidium since 2011. The particularly fertile soil of volcanic origin in which it is grown provides all the nutritional elements that make this bean rich in beneficial properties and an intense flavour. A product that risked extinction, being preserved only in family gardens, but thanks to a small group of local farmers.
Protagonists of the fourth episode of Leat it bean! – initiative promoted by TerraMadre to rediscover the different varieties of legumes, properties and uses in the kitchen – Acerra beans (Municipality in the metropolitan area of Naples) are distinguished by their thin skin and very quick cooking. They have an intense flavor and a good softness, perfect for various preparations. In Naples they are particularly suitable for pasta and beans or even with soups. In any case, the product can be eaten both fresh and dried.
Like all legumes, Acerra beans are also rich in vegetable proteins, fibers, mineral salts such as calcium, iron, magnesium, potassium, and zinc. Great sources of vitamins (A,B,C,E), are a natural remedy against high cholesterol, thanks to the large amount of lecithin contained and useful for the prevention of cardiovascular disease and diabetes. The environment also benefits enormously from the cultivation of this type of legume.
An ancient product of popular culture that has a strong link with the territory. Canon Andrea Sarnataro, author of a daily diary of events in Acerra from 1736 to 1771, mentions the cultivation of beans in the Acerra countryside in several texts on the history of the city. That of the "Dente di Morto" bean can be found in the "Guida Gastronomica d'Italia", published by the Italian Touring Club in 1931. In the guide, beans are indicated as the specialty of Acerra, exported to America at the time. The singular name comes from opaque white color, similar to the incisors of a dead person. Probably, because in this area since the early Christian era there were numerous burial places.
Its trade was widespread in the 900s until the 70s, the Messina and Cucco families were specialized in its marketing, they had also created their own brand for export. L'high energy content made these beans one of the basic foods of the peasant diet. Unfortunately, after the 70s the cultivation of beans, including Dente di Morto, drastically decreased due to low demand and the strong growth of beans imported from the rest of the world.
Cultivated with eco-sustainable practices, cultivation takes place in two periods of the year, exactly in April and July. From sowing to harvesting, the crop cycle is around 100-105 days. The plants of this legume look like non-climbing bushes, with a maximum height of between 50-70 cm. The most delicate moment is that of sowing, first of all you need to select the seed and choose the "suitable" moment based on the humidity of the soil and the climatic forecasts. The distance between the seeds also depends on this: for example in the absence of rain, three beans are planted close to each other to accentuate the upward thrust. However, with this type of sowing, less productive plants are obtained, given the reduced space for flowering. The harvest is done by hand in the month of July and from September to October, while the ginning can also be done mechanically, using a threshing machine. At this point the grain is selected, sorted and stored in cool environments in jute or hemp bags (so as to avoid the presence of parasites) and then packaged by hand.
Pasta and beans is one of the great classics of Italian cuisine. A complete and well-balanced meal from a nutritional point of view. For the hottest days to follow a summer version of pasta and beans.
Summer Acerra pasta and beans
Ingredients:
150 grams of tubetti pasta
1 box of cannellini beans Dente di Morto
1 clove of garlic
4 date tomatoes
1 green pepper
3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
Basil to taste
Procedure:
A fresh and quick recipe. Start by browning the garlic clove in the oil, together with the cherry tomatoes (previously chopped) and two or three strips of green chilli pepper, to give the dish a little acidity. After a few minutes, add half the can of beans and then pass all the ingredients through the hand blender, except for the garlic clove. Pour the mixture into the pan with the other half of the cannellini beans. Cook the pasta al dente first in water and then for a few minutes in the pan with the beans. One minute before turning off the heat, add the fresh basil and let it rest before serving.
