A few years ago few believed in it. Indeed, most considered her destined for certain death. Instead, surprisingly, the Italian textile industry is once again a protagonist after it was swept away in other European countries. “It is a great national heritage that we must try to preserve” said Marco Vitale, business economist, at the inauguration of the XIV edition of Milano Unica, the textile fair which will remain open until 9 February.
Two data, in particular, confirm the importance of weaving: the first is that, although it accounts for only 16% of the total turnover of the entire textile-clothing supply chain, it contributes 40% of the trade balance of the sector; the second, a surprise compared to the widespread perception, is that in countries such as China, Turkey or Brazil, the export of fabrics not only records significant growth (double-digit in the case of China and Turkey) but has reached higher than clothing exports.
While in traditional markets, such as Germany, France and the United States, the trend of exports tends to decrease. "I think it is right to underline these data - said Silvio Albini, president of Milano Unica - not to trigger an out of place competition but to reaffirm the value of the supply chain and the need to safeguard its integrity".
"There is nothing more strategic than cooperation", acknowledges Michele Tronconi, president of Sistema moda Italia, who however warns: "In 2011 the gap between those who do well and those who are unable to recover has widened further: many companies risk to slip, there is a strong instability in the textile-clothing industry. This is why it is important that the Government now switch from medicine to tonics".
Instead, there is talk of "cautious optimism" for luxury companies, those united in the Altagamma association, according to which the first estimates for this year, after a record-breaking 2011, indicate a barely discrete growth in Europe and North America, but double digits in Asia; it is mainly accessories (shoes and bags) and men's clothing (in China the latter has reached women's clothing, both worth 24 billion euros). Only in Russia and northern Europe does clothing still prevail.
This does not mean that we are facing "an epochal crisis", as Vitale defines it ("even the most gloomy economists have noticed it"). It means that the way of working, of thinking changes, the face of the world changes. So? "The right approach is to reflect on some fixed points to better direct the path".
And therefore: 1) the epochal crisis will last a long time. 2) However, there will be many differences, more than there were before, between stagnant economies and developing economies. 3) The Italian offer of luxury products and clothing textiles is small while there are enormous pockets of development: these spaces must be conquered by interpreting the tastes and needs of consumers. 4) A dual strategy is needed: defense on the financial front, attack on the product and market front. 5) Financial resources are and will always be less.
Once the rules of the game have been clarified, all that remains is to face the challenge. And the Italian fashion industry has what it takes to win it.
