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Carnival: risotto alla luganighetta, the cheerful dish that celebrates the flavors of Ticino

In the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, carnival lasts longer: in addition to the Roman rite, it is still customary to celebrate the Ambrosian rite carnival. Typical of this period is the risotto proposed by the chef Claudio Bollini which enhances the local products

Carnival: risotto alla luganighetta, the cheerful dish that celebrates the flavors of Ticino

Other than introverts, conservatives, conscientious, not inclined to indulge in frivolities and pleasures according to what long-standing stereotypes tell us. The Swiss are anything but. In fact, not everyone knows that in the Swiss confederation the desire for carnival crumbles clichés: in all the cantons the celebrations for the Carnival are multiplying, there are more than 130 local carnivals and not only in the big city centers, almost every village has its own characteristic carnival. Among all the Canton Ticino excels for the duration of the celebrations. In fact, in the Italian-speaking canton closest geographically to our country, in addition to the Roman rite carnival, it is still customary to celebrate, in some locations such as Tesserete, Brissago and in Upper Ticino (Leventina, Blenio, Riviera), the carnival of the Ambrosian rite. According to tradition, it is the mayor who starts the celebrations by handing over the keys of the city to the King who will oversee all the events from the parade of floats, to dances and choirs. The official music is the Guggenmusik, a repertoire of carnival music that combines popular music and other rock and pop hits

Also in Switzerland, therefore, as it happens all over the world - and from time immemorial - the carnival is synonymous with unbridled joy, fun, revelry, disguise. Her very ancient origins refer to the Greek Dionysiacs (the anthesteria) and the Roman Saturnalia when there was a temporary release from social obligations and hierarchies to make room for the reversal of order, for jokes and even for debauchery. From a historical and religious point of view, the carnival represented a period of celebration but above all of symbolic renewal, during which chaos replaced the established order, which, however, once the festive period was over, re-emerged new or renewed and guaranteed for a cycle valid until the beginning of the following carnival. The religious aspect is captured in its name derived from carnem levare ("eliminate the meat"), since it indicated the banquet that was held on the last day of Carnival (Mardi Gras), immediately before the period of abstinence and fasting prescribed in the period of Lent preceding Easter to remember the days spent in the desert by Jesus. Today the debauchery of the past has remained a distant memory and also from a gastronomic point of view the observance is much less rigid. If religious principles lead to lean eating, i.e. eliminating meat and animal fats while fish is authorized, nevertheless the transgressiveness linked to this celebration of joy takes the form of various preparations that are influenced by the local culture. In fact, like all self-respecting festivals, the Carnival has its culinary traditions which vary from area to area but everywhere there is classic risotto alla luganega and Ticinese Merlot, which is a typical preparation of Northern Italy whose birthplace has been linked to the Roman era when it was indicated with the Lucanic term. A tasty and rich risotto given by Luganighetta, the sausage par excellence of Italian Switzerland. A sausage with a unique flavor due to the spices with which it is flavored. By adding the Ticino Merlot red wine the magic happens and the flavors intensify and the result is an excellent risotto with a strong taste and intense aroma!

Other specialties can be tasted during this period throughout the country. There are very ancient carnivals that date back as far as the 1400s like the one in Biasca where the King Naregna Carnival is celebrated from 22 to 25 February with a full program of events, entertainment, lottery, and music throughout the night until morning. Parties and revelry also in Solduno and Brissago (Locarnese), Olivone and Airolo (Bellinzonese). but also in Nebiopoli which dates back to 1559 and united all the districts of Chiasso. The Upper Ticino of Italian-speaking Switzerland is particularly interesting, such as in Bellinzona, the Rabadan Carnival from 16 to 21 February, which begins on Thursday with the delivery of the keys to King Rabadan (the most famous Ticino ruler). On Friday the children's masked parade, while on Sunday the Great Masked Procession is held, a humorous parade of music, floats and groups according to the famous tradition of the King. In Ascona, the Carnival is celebrated on Shrove Tuesday (21 February) on the lakeside of the town.

To find your way around this festive-gastronomic tour to discover the area, visit the Ticino Gourmet website (www.ticinogourmettour.ch ) program of “St. Pellegrino Sapori Ticino”, one of the most important food and wine events in Europe founded by the entrepreneur Dany Stauffacher, it is possible to identify which of the Explore 4 different regions of the canton between: Ascona/Locarno, Bellinzona and Valli, Luganese or Mendrisiotto, through the many sports, culinary, cultural or recreational activities on offer. The tourist is also "accompanied" in the choice of his own food and wine adventure through the presentation of 70 restaurants with different proposals and standards, but all gathered under a single hat to offer a taste of the culinary identity of the area through a careful selection of wineries and activities that enhance the quality of local products, tell their philosophy and at the same time the story. For more information: https://ticinogourmettour.ch/news

The recipe of Chef Claudio Bollini of the Seven Restaurant in Lugano.

Ingredients:

– 240gr Carnaroli rice

– 100ml White wine

– 2lt Broth

– 200gr Luganighetta without casing

– 50gr debrinz

– 50g butter

– 100ml Ticino Merlot red wine

– 50ml glucose

– Pepe Valle Maggia (Upper Ticino)

– Saffron pistils (Ticino products in yellow).

Procedure:

Start by reducing the merlot with glucose to the desired consistency and put in a bottle. Shell the luganighetta and toast it in a pan until you get a crunchy powder. Put the rice in the pan without degreasing it, deglaze with white wine and continue cooking with the broth.

Halfway through cooking, add the saffron pistils previously soaked in the hot broth. Once cooked, stir the rice with grated Sbrinz, butter and Valle Maggia pepper. Serve, sprinkle over the crunchy luganighetta and the Ticino Merlot syrup.

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