Among the green countryside of selargius, a few steps from Cagliari, grows a plant that represents a silent challenge against building speculation and the abandonment of agricultural lands. It is the caper di selargius, recently recognized as Slow Food Presidium. A small miracle of nature that, with its small and more “empty” buds compared to the more common varieties, is not only a symbol of resilience, but also of a sustainable economy that has ancient and modern roots.
Selargius and the challenge to speculation
The Selargius caper has ancient origins dating back to the 19th century, when Domenico Dentoni, a Genoese who became mayor of Selargius, introduced the cultivation of this particular caper in the area. Over time, the plants have gained a reputation for their quality and features distinctive compared to other varieties, becoming a sought-after product in the lands of Sardinia.
However, the arrival of larger and easier-to-harvest caper varieties has overshadowed the smaller, more difficult-to-treat local ones. The laborious, manual harvesting, combined with the low remuneration, has contributed to this tradition falling into oblivion. Furthermore, the growing urbanization has put historical crops at risk: agricultural land, once precious, has been progressively valued more for its potential building than for agriculture. In this context of increasing building speculation, the Selargius caper has been rediscovered thanks to the tireless work of some local producers, including Marco Maxia ed Enrico Dentoni. In 2024, the Selargius caper became a Slow Food Presidium, a fundamental step to protect it from speculation and guarantee its valorization.
The Selargius caper: a unique variety
Unlike other varieties of caper, the Selargius caper stands out for its erect growth habit. This plant, which can reach up to one and a half meters in height, does not climb like other varieties, but grows like a small tree which proudly defies the hot and arid climate of Sardinia. Its leaves are small and dense, and its buds, lighter and more “empty” than other capers, are perfect for salting and preservation.
The Selargius caper is strictly hand-picked, in the early summer days, when the fruits are still firm and fresh. In some cases, the harvest also takes place at night, when the coolness of the moon makes the capers less soft. The work of the harvest is meticulous, but it is essential to ensure that only the best capers are selected.
Despite the difficulties, the cultivation of the Selargius caper has resisted over time. Some specimens are so old that they have more than 100 years and have been put back into production thanks to the tireless work of local producers. It is precisely this passion for the recovery of agricultural traditions that has allowed us to combat the abandonment of the land and the building speculation that threatens the area.
How to cook the Selargius caper
The Selargius caper is an ingredient versatile which can be used in many typical dishes of Sardinian cuisine. It can be preserved in salt, oil or vinegar, and is often used as a condiment for meat, fish, vegetable and fresh salad dishes. A traditional dish that features it is the rabbit to suck, a dish based on rabbit marinated in vinegar or malvasia, cooked with garlic, onions, dried tomatoes, olives and, of course, pickled capers.
But it is not only traditional cuisine that benefits from this caper: thanks to its lightness, the Selargius caper is also ideal for more modern dishes, as fresh sauces for pasta, salads or fish dishes. Its superior quality and freshness make it a versatile ingredient that conquers even the most demanding palates.
