Global, fusion, molecular, futurist, revisited, spontaneous, open, deconstructed, multisensory, ethnic: there are many paths taken in the kitchen by great chefs in recent years in Italy and abroad, but then after having explored many lands of conquest of flavors, cooking, pairings, the desire for a cuisine of domestic warmth, of memories of youth, of the unique and timeless flavors of grandmother's cooking that are never forgotten, always returns.
The pandemic that turned our lives upside down four years ago has also brought about an epochal turning point in our domestic habits and especially in our eating habits in the kitchen, at home and in restaurants, where there is a growing demand for simplicity and transparency. A Doxa/Unaitalia survey from some time ago testified that, when it comes to food and choices at the table, Italians always choose classic recipes. Almost 8 out of 10, 76%, clearly say they prefer traditional cuisine, that of their grandmother, to refined dishes, long preparations, exotic flavours.
Not even a great chef of international caliber, such as Franco Barbieri, who held the record for a long time with Michelin stars, seven, before being beaten by Enrico Bartolini, a name that has always struck fear among Masterchef contestants, does not escape this nostalgia for family cooking. , being the only one to have participated in all ten editions of the format in which he has been joined, over the years, by Carlo Cracco, Joe Bastianich, Antonino Cannavacciuolo, Antonia Klugmann and Giorgio Locatelli.
His artichoke lasagna is the result of the memory of those that his mother Ornella prepared and in their simplicity they pass on the flavor of an old-fashioned dish, testifying to the fact that even a great chef can practice in the kitchen with simple execution reach for everyone. A few details distinguish the great chef's recipe from that of Mrs. Ornella and give this very popular dish a special touch.
The first recommendation since it is a simple dish is the quality of the ingredients. Then very fresh artichokes, extra virgin olive oil from a good mill. The artist's touch lies in the addition of a few marjoram leaves, a bay leaf, a few mint leaves. When it comes to Parmesan, Barbieri recommends using the one that is not too aged: "24 months - he says - is already enough because the older it is, the stronger it becomes and in a pasta it is better to stay a little lower" while the 36 month old is preferable to eat as an appetizer , as an appetizer, as a second course.
Unlike how it is normally used, Mamma Ornella used to cover the lasagna with a sheet of pasta on which she placed a few flakes of butter and a little oil and which became crunchy during cooking. And here Barbieri recalls: “when we were kids, my sister and I were only interested in the crust; so, she ate it on the run then went out to play.
Finally, a recommendation: according to the teachings of families of the past, who did not throw anything away in the kitchen, the leaves and stems can be boiled separately to obtain a beneficial and pleasant purifying drink or broth.
The recipe for lasagna with artichokes from mother Ornella in memory of Bruno Barbieri

Ingredients 2 3 artichokes
200 g of fresh lasagne
200 g of bechamel
150 g of parmesan
a clove of garlic
a sprig of marjoram
a sprig of mint
lemon juice
ice
butter
extra virgin olive oil
Sale
Pepe
Method
Clean the artichokes and remove the central beard, then cut them thinly and place them in water acidulated with lemon to prevent them from darkening.
Prepare a béchamel sauce with 35 g of butter, 25 g of flour, 250 ml of milk, grated nutmeg, salt and pepper: melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and cook for 2 minutes, stirring so that no lumps form, " but without letting it brown – warns the chef – otherwise it will become bitter”. Add the milk and, stirring constantly, bring to the boil over a gentle heat. Salt, pepper, add the nutmeg and cook until the béchamel is firm.
Pour the olive oil into a pan and the garlic clove, which should be browned and then removed. Then put the well-dried artichokes and add a bay leaf, a little marjoram and cook everything. Another warning from the chef, once the artichokes have been cooked, remove them from the pan and place them to drain on sheets of absorbent paper, but do not throw away the cooking oil because it can be used to flavor the lasagna.
Finally, cut the egg pasta into squares the size of the pan that will go in the oven. Boil the water in a large container and add a pinch of salt when it reaches the right temperature. The squares of pasta are thrown in and then placed on a cloth to dry them well on both sides. Fundamental step because "if you don't do it this way after we put the béchamel in, if the pasta is wet it won't stick". Alternatively, the chef recalls another school of thought according to which the lasagne sheets, after boiling, are left to cool in water and ice and then dried thoroughly with a cloth or absorbent paper.
It's time to bring it all together. We proceed with a first layer of pasta on which we arrange the artichokes and the béchamel with a sprinkling of parmesan and a drizzle of oil; therefore, we proceed like this for six-seven layers. And obviously according to mother Ornella's teachings, close with a layer of dough, a few flakes of clarified butter, a drizzle of oil on top and then bake at 180-200°C for gratinating. “I would say – finally suggests Barbieri – to immediately put it at 200°C also because all the ingredients we put inside are practically already cooked so it just needs to be compacted and gratinated”