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Nicola Russo's recipe: Troccoli with ancestral cazmarro ragout

Chef Nicola Russo offers a dish of the most genuine and ancient tradition of the Capitanata, a poor recipe from the past when the people of the terraces had to be satisfied with eating only the fifth quarter of the slaughtered meat. Specifically the Troccoli, simple pasta of the Apulian tradition are accompanied by sheep entrails. A demanding recipe that has the flavor of history.

Nicola Russo's recipe: Troccoli with ancestral cazmarro ragout

For the troccoli:

Ingredients for 4 people:

350 g of re-milled semolina flour

1 egg 

1 tablespoon of oil

Salt to taste

Warm water to taste

Preparation:

Place the semolina flour in the center of the work surface; recommended a wooden table.

Make a fountain in the center and break an egg;

With your fingers, like a fork, mix and add 1 tablespoon of oil, a pinch of salt and a little warm water (the dough must be soft but not sticky);

Divide the dough into two pieces and roll out with a rolling pin (the dough shouldn't be too thin);

Pass the troccalaturo (a typical bronze rolling pin for making troccoli or more commonly the chitarra) on the sheets, applying a little pressure to cut the dough;

Gently divide the Troccoli;

Cook in plenty of salted water for about 2 minutes, adding a spoonful of oil to the water (as is customary for cooking fresh pasta).

For the Cazmarro:

Ingredients: 400g. of mixed lamb entrails (liver, heart, lung…), 150 g. about lamb omentum (the network of the small intestine), 200 g. of small intestine of lamb (guts) parsley to taste; 100 grams of grated pecorino cheese, a clove of garlic, pepper and salt to taste, laurel.

Preparation: 

wash all the entrails and intestines of the lamb several times under running water. leave the intestine to soak in cold water possibly with a few spoonfuls of wine vinegar to whiten it (I would avoid it). In the meantime, cut the innards into thin slices, sauté them with oil, garlic and chilli pepper and bay leaf, then add them to the cheese in a bowl. On a work surface arrange two layers of lamb's net one on top of the other so that the net is resistant and can contain the innards without breaking. Place half of the seasoned innards in the center of the lamb net, and roll the latter into a cylinder around the filling. At this point, use the previously prepared intestine as a long «thread» to be rolled up as a closure to the cylinder. Repeat everything for a second «marro». 

Boil it for a few minutes in salted water, then dry it, brown it in a pan and keep it aside before adding it to the ragout.

For the ancestral ragout:

500 g of tomato pulp

300 g of tomato puree

Cazmarro

50 g of carrots

50 g of celery sticks

300 g of white onion from Margherita di Savoia

1 glass of dry white wine

1 clove of garlic

Laurel 

Fresh mint

Chilli

extra virgin olive oil to taste

salt to taste

Method:

Put the extra virgin olive oil in a fairly large frying pan or casserole and prepare a sautéed garlic, celery, carrot all cut into small cubes (bronoise) and all the onion cut into thin strips (filange'). Go over moderate heat and when it is all golden, deglaze with white wine until it has completely evaporated. 

Add the bay leaf cazmarro pepper (previously prepared) and mint and let everything lightly flavor for a few minutes. Add the pulp and continue to cook for 30 minutes on low heat. Add the tomato puree and continue to cook for about 2 hours. Correct with salt, pepper and mint.

Plating:

Drain the troccoli with a colander, add them to the ragù without the cazmarro (which we will cut into regular discs and use to garnish the dish) and sauté everything together for about 1 minute.

Serve as desired but sprinkling everything with a generous handful of strong pecorino.

Comment from the Chef: “And what a magn…..”

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